Life Aboard & Abroad

Since we’ve been back stateside, we have had plenty of questions about life aboard a sailboat.  So we’ve decided to answer some of those questions in todays blog by describing what life aboard was like for us.  Feel free to post new questions in the comment area below and don’t forget to help us win a trip to Argentina by clicking here!

Life Aboard:  The Day Begins

The sun is nature’s Alarm Clock.  It happened every morning despite our best efforts to crawl further into the shadows of our bunks.  Still, there was no hiding from the sun once it rose high enough to shine through the open hatches.  But it was a nice, gradual way of waking up.  Nothing like the annoying screaming of my alarm clock now.  But thinking back on the size of my small quarter berth, I don’t think I’ll ever complain about having a small apartment again.

Sleeping soundly in my bunk.

Once we had crawled out of our bunks and had a good stretch it was time for a shower.  Nothing shocks you awake like diving off the boat into cool Caribbean waters.  I miss personal hygiene being this simple.  It was as easy as falling over board.  Since most bathing was done outdoors, modesty really wasn’t a practiced concept in most anchorages.  Eventually, we got used to seeing our neighbors’ bare asses …and having them see ours.

Our morning shower. Photo courtesy of www.djkphotos.com

Shave Optional:  On days that I deemed a good shave necessary I would shave with a bucket of saltwater and a dull razor.  I definitely don’t miss this.  Its unbelievable the amount of hair that gathers all over the boat.  It was a daily chore just having to sweep it all up.  So it was just easier to do all my shaving over a bucket.  Thats probably why I didn’t shave so much.  And I have no idea how Alyson managed all her shaving.

Next comes a saltwater shave from a bucket.

Transportation:  Life without a car

Its strange.  I love to drive, and I drive a lot.  My ole pick-up truck has covered a lot of ground in the past 10 years, and I would definitely rather drive 1000 miles than fly the same distance.  That being said, I didn’t really miss having a car at all.  As a matter of fact, life without a car forced us to plan better, be more resourceful and more outgoing.  Which in turn, led to new friendships and experiences we would not have made otherwise.

the Dinghy:  Our dry way of getting to shore.  Even though we got along fine without a car, there was no living aboard without a dinghy.

Going for a Sunday drive.

There never seems to be any good, free dinghy docks in the Caribbean.  Most are dangerous, falling apart, or costly.  Even though this one in Curacao was so small, it was probably one of the best kept we saw.  Trying to get a parking spot here on grocery day was a nightmare though.

Trying to find a parking spot.

We always did a ton of walking which we really enjoyed.  Especially since we didn’t have a busy schedule we could take all the time we wanted to explore on foot.  As long as we made it back by sunset.   Even now Alyson and I look for excuses to walk places instead of driving.

Going to town.

Public Transportation in the southern Caribbean and South America rocked! Although we had to learn to be more patient and arrange our plans a little better, it was still a nice way to get around. We survived off the bus systems in Curacao, and the Maxi-Taxis in Grenada are great, but no one could beat the efficiency and cheap prices of taxis in Cartagena.

We literally spent hours a day waiting for buses.

After months of travel, distance became a relative concept. It wasn’t long before walking miles for even the smallest things became no big deal.

Here we walked nearly 2 miles to get a cold drink.

And for those occasions when we needed to cover great distances, we could always rent a car or scooter.  It was on these days that we got the need for speed out of our systems.

Alyson with our rented scooter. Photo courtesy of www.djkphotos.com

The Bare Necessities

The most basic necessity of life:  Water…for coffee

Every few days (depending on fresh water showers and consumption) was water day.  This meant having to replenish the boat’s water tanks with clean, fresh drinking water brought from shore.  This experience really taught me a lot about the importance of water conservation.  Especially, since I was the guy having to haul all the water back to the boat.  Here I am topping up the tanks.

Doing laundry on a boat is all about how long can you go without having to do it.  Its a hassle.  It takes up a lot of fresh water if you do it aboard, and still doesn’t come out that clean.  And if you take it to the laundry mats ashore you could end up spending a bundle…because you’ve waited so long to do laundry that you have to wash all your clothes now.

For this reason, many sailors prefer to just stay naked when aboard.  Or at the very most they just wear a  swim suit each day.  A few times, Alyson and I were able to do some impromptu laundry during the afternoon rain showers in Curacao.

Alyson doing our laundry.

We get a lot of questions about buying food. We just went to the grocery store and purchased food with our debit cards. The same as anywhere else. Every once in a while, we would visit the open air markets to find new and interesting delicacies. The brown root looking vegetable in the photo below is a Yucca plant, and it tastes amazing when cooked like a fried potato.

Going to Market.

We ate pretty well, but most often when other people cooked.  On the days when we felt ambitious enough, we would make some pretty good meals in the galley though (including Hayashi-Chuyuka, Chicken Tikka Masala, and Po-Boy Sandwiches.)

Alyson pulling one of her homemade pizzas from the oven.

We ate a lot of seafood.  Catching fish off the boat is like having a pizza delivered for dinner.  Free food without even having to leave the house.  One of our favorite ways of preparing the fish was Sashimi style.  This eliminates even having to cook it. Bonus!

Fishing with Paul on SunRunner.

Here are three pretty Bonitas caught, cleaned and ready for the cook.

An easy supper tonight!

And on nights when cooking on board was too much of a hassle, we could just go out to eat.

Going out to eat.

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Today’s post is a little different. Instead of me droning on for an hour, for you slow readers, or twenty-eight seconds, for those realizing they got the wrong site, I would like to present you with a cinematic master piece. A MONTAGE!!!

But before you cringe let me also say that it has music, and dolphins jumping, and oceans, and an amazing car race with scantly clad women….OK the last part is a lie.

It’s a video re-cap of our sailing journey across the southern Caribbean from Grenada to Colombia, over 1000 nautical miles, 7 months, and 2 sailboats later.

So go pop some pop-corn, sit back and relax!

Sailing The Southern Caribbean from Hop & Jaunt on Vimeo.

It’s also on YouTube if you have a preference.

I think your pop-corn is ready now.

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Happy New Years from the Crew at Hop & Jaunt Travelouges!  We’re excited about the new adventures and travels that lay ahead in 2010.  But before we jaunt into the last year of the decade, lets hop back and take a look at some of our favorite experiences from the past year.   Its Hop & Jaunt’s Top Ten Favorite Adventures of 2009.

10.)  Beach Bumming at Roger’s Bar on Hog Island, Grenada

Roger's Beach Bar - Hog Island, Grenada

Roger’s Bar on Hog Island was our first Caribbean experience after joining Alyson’s parents on Quercus.  Roger’s ramshackle beach shack not only had the appearance of being thrown together with driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves, but it literally was put together with nothing more than driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves.  Many afternoon ’sundowners’ turned into late night ‘howl at the moon’ sessions underneath the glow of the single 12 Volt powered light bulb.  Live reggae music, sand between your toes and always a cold beer set the perfect mood for mingling and socializing with the  locals and sailors from around the world.  To read more click here.

9.)  Baby Sitting a Whale in Curacao

Giving baby Sully a tummy rub.

While boat sitting in Curacao we decided to try a little baby sitting as well.  We volunteered to watch after a 10 foot baby pilot whale that was being nursed back to health.  Sully the pilot whale was beached by his family after becoming too ill to keep up with the rest of his pod.  Efforts by local marine biologist and volunteers helped to restore the baby whale back to full health.  We spent a few nights lying by Sully’s pen keeping him company as he vied for our attention by requesting several belly rubs.  It was an experience we will always remember.  Unfortunately efforts to integrate Sully back into the wild have failed, and there are talks that he will be moved to a tank in Sea World, San Diego.  For more click here.

8.)  Oil Down in the Jungle

Hiking into the Jungle for an Oil Down Party

One of the most authentically local island days we’ve had. We joined a young group of locals and sailors for a cook out by the jungle rivers up in the mountains of Grenada. The dish we cooked was a local delicacy called an “oil down” because the different oils sink to the bottom of the pot.  As Grenada is one of the famed ’spice isles’ we drove through the island picking up our fresh ingredients from along the road, people’s yards, and in the trees.  After a hike through the jungle with our pots pots, herbs, and breadfruit we jumped in the river to cool down before building a fire and cooking our very own “oil down” in the jungle. Click here to read more.

Cooking Oil Down in the Jungle

7.)  Windsurfing in Curacao

Windsurf Curacao

While anchored in Spanish Waters in Curacao, we were constantly watching windsurfers whizz by us.  So when we were given the opportunity to learn ourselves, we jumped all over it! Though I would not say we were exactly graceful during our first lessons we did manage to pick up the basics and enjoyed surfing past our friends on the sailboats.  To read more click here.

6.)  Scootering Around Bonaire

Our Macho Scooter from Bonaire

One of our most favorite days was just riding around the small Dutch island of Bonaire on our rented scooter.  Speeding on the curvy roads alongside breathtaking cliffs that plunge down into the blue-green sea was an incredible way to see the island.  We spotted ponds of flamingos, scattering iguanas, and the occasional wild donkey.  Nothing like having the salty sea wind whip by your face as you race full speed through the desert.  We also enjoyed Bonaire for the unbelievable snorkeling.  The underwater wildlife was other-worldly yet beautiful.  Its definitely somewhere we would like to visit again.  For more photos and video click here.

5.)  Scuba Diving in Curacao

Spotted Eagle Ray

Speaking of breathtaking sea life we can’t forget to mention our scuba excursions off the coast of Curacao.  Thanks to our good friend and dive instructor Andy along with some money earned by cleaning boat bottoms, we were able to obtain our Scuba certifications.  The sensation of being 65 feet below the sea’s surface is both tranquil and intense.  The imagery we saw would be difficult to explain in words.  I can only recommend that you do it for yourself.  The fish and coral are like living works of art.  One moment in particular that stands out for us was our very first time diving together.  It was just Alyson and I…and one curious Spotted Eagle Ray.  The sight of that giant ray gracefully flying through the water as he circled us was awesome.  For more Curacao adventures click here.

4.)  Festivals in Cartagena

Festival Parade in Cartagena

Everyone loves a good party, and no one does it quite like Cartagena.  The beautiful old world city is the perfect setting for the week long celebration of parades, fireworks, and concerts.  We had a blast hanging out with our good friends as we all joined in the fun.  The festivities were filled with amazing costumes and dances with plenty of good food and beer, not to mention the all out foam wars.  A not to miss for those energetic enough to last the never ending fiestas.  Plenty of photos and videos here.

3.)  Sailing the Seas

Alyson tanning on deck.

The only way to travel, there is nothing like coming into port by sailboat.  While we have been to some amazing places and done some pretty cool things, one of our favorite parts was just getting from point  A to B.  At times it was relaxing and easy going.  Other times we were wet, tired, and struggling to keep wind in the sails.  Still we love it.  The splashing of dolphins on the bow.  Catching fish underway.  And being alone in the cockpit on a late night watch with just the millions of brilliant stars above.  If you ever want to have an experience of a lifetime…then go to sea.

Click here for more tales of the Spanish Main.

2.)  Turtle Watching in Los Testigos

Watching the Turtles Lay Eggs

We will always remember that dark night on the east coast of Testigos when we watched the giant, dinosaur-like sea turtles emerge from the crashing sea waves.  Their immense size and prehistoric appearance reminded us of how enormous and old the world really is.  Its important to have moments like that every once in a while.  We were also surprised by the gentle nature and careful precision of such an odd and slow animal.  These turtle mothers plan their nests with the most patient manner.  They are actually quite capable of digging with incredible accuracy.  Not to mention the delicate care they treat each egg with.  The whole experience was in a word…beautiful.

Click here to read more.

1.)  Our Secret Cove

Alyson Drinking Coconut Milk at Secret Cove

Everyone out traveling and sailing is looking for that one paradise spot.  The one isolated, remote, and private place that makes you say, “this will always be our spot”, and from then on when you think of paradise its the image that comes to mind.  Ours was secret cove.  Sailing along the Colombian coast and through the morning mist we were awed by the landscape before us:  Beaches, rainforests, water falls, and snow capped mountains.  We spent nearly a week in Secret Cove enjoying the snorkeling, dinghy sailing, beach BBQs, midnight rows, and being away from the rest of the world. You know, this spot actually has it’s own name, but it will always be our secret cove.

See more amazing photos and video of ‘Our Secret Cove’ here.

Beach BBQ at Secret Cove

If you would like to go back and read the blogs about each of these places just click on the link after each paragraph.  Thanks to all our readers who have followed us this year and to all our good friends we’ve made along the way.  We hope you all have a Happy New Years and look forward to seeing you again soon in 2010.

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We have now been in Curacao for over three months and the time has come to move on. The situation with us, however, is very different now than it was when we entered the island. My parents, Michael and Donna, have decided to return to the States where they will pursue a whole new adventure and life on the mainland. The reason we are even in Curacao right now is due to their one comment over ten months ago. “If you are looking at having an adventure or going off sailing, why don’t you come with us for a while and see if you really like this life style.” The rest, as they say, is history. We sailed and lived aboard their 36’ steel sailboat, Quercus, for over five months and have sailed across the Caribbean together. John and I not only had a blast but we were able to learn a lot in a short time that other wise would have taken us years and far more painful mistakes to get. Thank you Mom and Dad. P.S. My Mom is a photographer and she took some amazing photos from our trip and also from around the Caribbean, go check out her site at djkphotos.

My parents left roughly a month ago and since then John and I have been onboard alone. Quercus has been sold to a nice young Australian couple. They could not get to the boat for a month and so we agreed to watch over her and take care of her while we lived here. It has worked out great, not only did we have a nice safe place to stay but we got to truly experience what living on a boat on your own is like. We were expecting this period to be rather quiet and maybe we would even get a lot of personal projects done, such as updating this blog more! But as it turned out this month has been the busiest we’ve had in some time. We started our design “business” and have bartered free windsurfing lessons for some graphic design work. (p.s. From now on just click on photos in blog to view larger or for slideshow!)

Curacao Windsurf Diploma

I also designed a website for an amazing luxury yacht, named Astahaya. If you ever want to ACTUALLY sip on a cocktail while watching the sunset in paradise on a boat this is the way to do it. John worked on setting up and teaching a couple of close friends how to use and manage a blog. When we were not doing “office” work we (and I mean mostly John) also stumbled upon a thriving business, cleaning bottoms….boat bottoms that is. The water in Spanish Waters is like a warm lake, it is not the prettiest waters in the world. In these warm waters thing grow incredibly fast. A sailboat, in order to operate efficiently, needs to have a clean hull and prop. While we had no scuba gear, during this trip we have discovered that John is a good free-diver. So off he went diving under boats with nothing but a mask and a scraper.

One of the most pleasant aspects of these past months in Curacao is that we have met a ton of amazing people and have become close friends with many. Due to the people we have met we have also been able to take part in and enjoy a lot of new experiences. Here’s a short re-cap of the past few weeks.

We met Tom and Christian in Curacao, but they had actually been family friends for a while. Over the past few months we have become close friends and have spent a great deal of time together. When they found out that not only was Curacao hosting a gay pride week “Get Wet” but that we have never been to one before they insisted that we go along for the ride. Luckily for us, the event was advertised as “straight friendly!” It turned out to be a great weekend between having dinners in swanky restaurants, watching a movie by the beach in a designer bar, and several surprises along the way as well.

Tom & Christian

Tom is a kitchen wiz, and so is Christian, so when we invited them over to dinner I was a little nervous about their reactions. They are sweet but I can imagine they would be brutally honest as well! I cooked a few Japanese home style dishes since I figured it would be new for them. After some juicy Kara-age (fired chicken)

Kara-Age, Ummm Yummy

and Hiyashi-Chiyuka (summer noodles). It was a big hit if I may say so myself. I gave Tom the recipe and he has even cooked it for his guest…not bad for a girl who still can’t make white sauce. The first night’s reception was held in the historic and beautiful Hotel Kulanda.

Kulanda

The hotel is more like a miniature city preserved since the colony began as you wonder around the cobble stone streets.

Hotel Kulanda BuildingHotel Kulanda

Hotel Kulanda

Dance

Africa Shaped Statue

Night Out With Tom & Christian

Rainbow

Reception Night

Pride Week

The second day was a movie night at the designer bar and club, The Moon, where we lounges on sofas watching a movie outdoors. By good timing the full moon was actually out as well. The Moon is a must see for those interested in good design and cool spots while on Curacao.

The Moon The Moon Pool

The Moon Private Dining

The Moon BarMovie Night by the Beach

Night Out

The last night was a beach party. It was to be held right by where we were anchored. We just took the dingy over and watched a live DJ spin tunes in front of the beach while people danced or got thrown into the kiddy pool. Alot of the people we had met in the island over the last few months showed up, and we all talked danced, and sometimes swam until late at night.

On the 29th of September John turned 27. That morning, as we talked about in this post, we baby sat Sully, the pilot whale. What we had to do afterwards with barely any sleep was to head downtown to the immigrations office. We were in the process of requesting an extension to our visas so that we could sail out in a safe weather window. So we spent several hours in the office to find we had not only gotten nowhere but that the Coast Guard had been trying to find our boat for a week and had not been able to. I figured this was due to the fact that a U.S. Diplomat for Curacao had mysteriously gone missing near Spanish Waters just that week. I am guessing the C.G. had bigger issues to work on than finding our boat for a paperwork related matter. After a quick lunch in town we got back on the bus going home and wearily made our way back to our safe heaven, good ol’ Quercus. For this special occasion we had stopped at the grocery store on the way home and had bought cake mix, whip cream, and fresh cold milk! A rare treat in our current life. Unfortunately getting off the bus means you have to wait an hour for the same bus to make his lope and get back to you. The poor milk.

Safely back on board and after a nice nap I woke up and began cooking a sponge cake for John. Since we had no candles I had gotten some red plums and sliced them to spell 27…somewhat.

John turns 27

Happy Birthday!

27th Cake

We sat on the cockpit and enjoyed our cake and milk in the first moment of calm since leaving for town hours earlier. Not three bites into our second piece did we spy the giant inflatable Coast Guard boat coming up beside us. So much for a break! We then spent the next hour going through paperwork, and looking over the boat before they wished John a happy birthday and left us in their wake. We had originally planned on taking the extra cake up to the cruiser’s social to share and have a drink to celebrate. But after the ordeal of the day we just turned off all the lights and radios, plugged in the computer and settled into for a movie night. We found out days later that several good friends of ours, Tom, Christian, Otto, and Lilly had planned on a surprise birthday party and had even baked a beautiful cake for us but couldn’t get a hold of us! Don’t worry though, Tom & Christian have a big fridge and the cake was much appreciated a few days later. Thanks again everyone!

In the last weeks we managed to wrap up our windsurfing lessons, and are now ready to surf! For his birthday, and with his bottom cleaning money John was able to get his diver’s certification through another friend we had made on the island, Andy the Divemaster. In three short days John was able to get his certification, on his last day Andy even gave us a free tank so that we could go dive together alone. The water was crystal clean and as we descended downward near 60ft. we were in a dreamlike world of colors. While I was lost in the dreamlike world floating around I saw John’s eye’s pop out and he started pointing at something right behind my shoulder. Half hoping he was playing another one of his hilarious pranks on me I turned around to face a White Spotted Eagle Ray swimming right behind me! The Ray glided through the water and with it’s unique beak-like mouth and soaring motions there is no other description than to say it was flying. It circled around us several times and we watched in awe. As it slowly disappeared into greater deaths we turned back towards the shore and began swimming up. On the way back we did get to see a giant green Eel hiss at us from it’s hole. Those things really are as evil and mean looking as the Little Mermaid led me to believe years before.

These last few days we have truly began to feel like traveling nomads for the first time. The new owner came to pick up Quercus a few days ago and since then we have been bouncing around from friends to friend’s couches. However, since everyone has been so fun to be with it has helped ease the tension of being slightly homeless. Giancarlo and Luisa let us stay onboard their boat and we spent the next day running around town getting boats sorted out. We ended up on the breath taking coast line. Joost, even though he had a huge deadline that night let us stay at his place for a few days. Thank you everyone again!

Cliff Hugger

Coast Line John

Cliff Walkers

Windy Day By The Ocean

Resort Juust

Tomorrow we move aboard s/y Sunrunner with Captain Paul to begin our journey westward to Colombia. We will be sailing along the coast and having heard such great things about it we are excited to get started. Fair seas to all.

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July 9th

Spanish Waters

As “Land Ahoy!” echoed through Quercus, our sailboat, a flock of neon pink flamingos flew past us headed back to Bonaire. We had sailed out of Kralendjik, Bonaire, earlier that morning and after another quick down wind sail we were rounding the southern tip of Curacao. The wind was 20-25kts with the waves around 5-7ft and we were under full genoa and main. Our destination in Curacao was Spanish Waters, one of the most protected natural harbors in the Caribbean. A perfect hurricane hole outside of the main hurricane paths. Curacao actually has two such natural harbors, and ever since Columbus’s scout “discovered” Curacao there has been a political tug-of-war between the Spanish and Dutch over the island. In the 1800s Dutch finally gained total control and it has remained a Dutch island for the past two hundred years.

The entrance to Spanish Waters is a very narrow channel no wider than 50-75ft at the most. It is extremely difficult to be certain exactly where the entrance is just by eyeballing it from the rolling ocean for the first time. As we neared the marked spot on our charts Mom and I went forward as look outs and John and Captain manned the helm and sails. Just as we were approaching this critical point in our trip I spied a Coast Guard cutter steaming full speed at us from our rear. While we had to contend with a stiff breeze and choppy seas this ship’s wake was twice as large as the waves in the ocean, some 9-11ft! As it continued toward us at that reckless speed I could see that it would cause wet and rough trouble for us.

I started waving frantically to get them to either slow down or to move away from us. They seemed to get the message about their wake and slowed down at the niche of time but inched closer to our boat and began calling out to us on their megaphone. After a few minuets of chaotic gesturing, while we were also busy trying to lower the sails, not run aground, spot the entrance, the captain finally was able to get them on the radio. The Coast Guard then proceeded to ask for detailed information regard the people on board, passport numbers, saftey equipment, ship documents, all the while we are trying to stay oncoarse. Unlike when you get pulled over in a car, on the ocean, especially when so close to shore you can’t just stop and sit still. The boat keeps moving. Thus by the time the Coast Guard were satisfied and turned to go chase down other ships we had already passed our entrance by several miles! Heading around and clobbering upwind we finally were able to turn into the channel. The weather was slightly overcast and the visibility through the water was nearly zero. Even with depth sounding equipment, the best practice on board when entering new and shallow harbors is to keep a sharp eye out. As we wound our way up the narrow path and avoided running aground some very shallow patches the channel opened up wide and revealed Spanish Waters.

Anchor down, coffee water boiling, and we are finally safe and sound in Curacao. Looking around there are more sailboats anchored here than we had seen in the past few months. There are ships of every shape and size anchored, windsurfers racing around the boats, and tiny little sailboats with white sails roaming around the bay. The first thing we noticed was that the color of the water was brown. After being spoiled by pristine ocean waters filled with color and life, we were a little dissapointed by the pond like water in Spanish Waters. With only the small channel connecting this body of water with the ocean, the water is stagnant and still. We were rather surprised when we threw out some moldy bread over the side and there was no mob of fish devouring it. The sad pile of bread crumbs just floated away. We have found that just a few min. walk over the spit of land reveals the pristine waters we left behind so we are still able to swim and snorkel, just not as easy as jumping of the boat had been! Oh how spoiled indeed we have become. Another thing we noticed coming around the bay was that this was a major island, the bay was lined with summer homes, and at night we are surrounded by the twincle of the city lights. Boy have we entered something different!

Photos From Spanish Waters:

Quercus at Anchor

Windsurfers

Spanish Water Summer Homes

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While traveling throughout the Westward Antilles we’ve seen quite a lot of amazing things.  Each day is filled with breath taking scenery.  Picturesque white sandy beaches stretch right across our front yard (figuratively speaking).  We have seen dramatic landscapes with towering island mountains that drop off sharp cliffs and straight into the sea.  Living right on the surface of the world’s largest aquarium has given us the opportunity to  view an astounding quantity of tropical sea life, and during our excursions inland we have met dozens of very cool and interesting people.  Yet, on occasion we happen across something that really catches our attention.  Sometimes its something in the local culture that strikes us as different and new.  Other times its an out of place object that doesn’t seem to fit with the rest of the beautiful scenery, or more often than not, it just strikes us as funny.  So here is a compilation of some of the strange and curious oddities we’ve found while in Bonaire.

A Donkey Sanctuary

Bonaire is not lacking in a large variety of wildlife beneath the water, but on land their are very few species of animals…aside from Iguanas and Flamingos.  It is, however, home to a very unique species of donkey.  This historic breed is kept and protected in Bonaire’s Donkey Sanctuary.  Here they house, feed, and treat over 300 donkeys…you know…for prosperity.  In fact if you leave Bonaire by air plane they ask if you would please donate to help save the donkeys.  

Save the Donkeys

Topless Dutch Girls

Before arriving in Bonaire, Alyson and I have really stood out in a crowd of locals.  On our arrival to the Caribbean, our pale white complexions and her bright blonde hair were a dead give away; although, with time we have tanned pretty nicely.  Since Bonaire is a member of the Dutch Antilles, there is naturally a large population of Dutch citizens.  Now we are frequently surrounded by the masses of young blonde, white Dutch residents of the island.  As a matter of fact, sometimes during trips to town I lose track of Alyson in the crowd.  Its all those blonde heads that throw me off.  Most locals even confuse her for being Dutch.  I usually get an assortment of wild guesses including Canadian, French, Italian, and once someone asked me if I was from Bangkok.  

But one thing I’ve learned and liked about the Dutch is that its not uncommon for some girls to go topless.  Even at the public beaches you will sometimes find these young women sunbathing away their tan lines.  On one occasion in particular, I was talking with the Skipper as we sat in the cockpit.  Suddenly, a small power boat came slowly motoring by not more than 20 feet from our boat.  Reclining on the bow was a young, perky dame smiling and waving to us as she passed by.  I don’t think either the Skipper or myself remember what we had been talking about previously.  That was a good day

Photo not available

US Imports

While abroad, I try to keep my eyes open for things that are imported from the United States.  Mostly, its food and cars.  While on a shopping trip to the grocery store in Kralendjik, I found this item direct from the state of Georgia in the good ole USA.  The name on the box says it all.  Does anyone know if they sell this in the US too?  I’ve never seen it.

Made in the USA!

Cut-Up Chicken Parts

Bonaire Chicken

Alabama has its share of strange cuisine, so this shouldn’t surprise me…but it does.  Bonaire chicken is Iguana.  I suppose there are plenty to go around, and its not served in most tourist restaurants so you would have to go to a really local food joint to find it.  The strange thing is though, that apparently they cook it like lobster…alive in a boiling pot of water.  I haven’t tried it yet.  Should I?  Cheeseburgers just sound so much more appetizing.

Bonaire Chicken

Rain

This probably isn’t such an oddity for most people, but for us it was.  We haven’t seen rain in nearly 3 months, so when we began getting a few short showers in the late afternoons we were pretty excited.  The boat needed it desperately.  Quercus was getting covered in a thin layer of red dust.  We washed and cleaned as much as we could, but it was a daily battle.  Also, we could only clean as high as the reach of our arms, so the mast and all the shrouds really needed the washing.  Also rainy days are good days to stay below and read.

One Boat, One Man, Eleven Dogs

After a week and a half in Bonaire, we had a new neighbor moor right next to us.  It was a very small, steel sailboat…maybe 28 feet in length.  It was manned by one old, lonely Spanish man and his ten, eleven, twelve dogs (we could never keep count).  Fortunately, we were upwind of him, but I can’t imagine the horror of what his living quarters below must have looked like.  These weren’t cute, cuddly puppies either, but all full size, viscous dogs.  Well…see for yourself.

Salty Dogs

This did a lot to disturb the peaceful tranquility of the bay.  The dogs barked constantly at anything that went by.  Anytime a boat passed all the dogs would rush on deck and begin snapping and barking.  Anytime a dog passed by on the boardwalk 100 yards away…again with the barking.  Anytime you snorkeled near his boat, dogs would jump in the water and give chase.  And always the barking was followed by the old man yelling one long and pleading “Noooooooo”.  We think thats all he knew how to say.  Apparently, he is quite notorious in the ABC islands.  Even folks in Curacao remember him with a bit of wonder.  Did he just find all those dogs, or did they find him?  You meet a lot of strange people on sailboats.  Its a lifestyle that requires you to be a little different, but even for cruisers this guy was very odd.

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The crew on a Swan 86 Racing Yacht.

The time we spent in Bonaire, gave us the opportunity to make several new friends and meet up with old ones.  Since most boats sailing in the westward Antilles have to visit the same islands, you get the chance to see some of the same people over and over.  You come to remember them more by the name of the boat and less by the names of the actual people.  Here is a quick blog about some of our favorite people and most memorable days while in Bonaire.   

The Young American Vacationers:

Our first week in Bonaire we met Richard and Tiffany.  They are a young American couple from Springfield, Missouri who had come down to the island on vacation.  Tiffany, who is a dive master, had visited Bonaire before and had returned with Richard to share the experience.  We happened to bump into them while having sundowners at Krael’s dockside bar.  They rocked and exponentially improved the already great time we were having in Bonaire.  It was great to sit, have a few beers and talk with people our own age, especially such interesting people.  Tiffany has spent years diving and told us all the good spots to hit along the waters edge.  She even does spelonking or cave diving.  Richard was awesome, too.  He kept us entertained and laughing with stories of bar tending, his stand-up comedy, touring the states with his band, and driving an ambulance.  We had such a great time with them that we all decided to meet the next day to do some snorkeling together.

We make friends with Tiffany and Richard while having sundowners.

Late the next morning, we headed out together in Quercus’s little dinghy to a spot they recommended.  The reefs along the island sit under about 30 feet of water.  The water is so clear though that the fish and corals are clearly visible from the surface.  We swam along watching the countless varieties of tropical fish passing beneath us.  The colorful coral sloped out of visibility and into the dark blue backdrop of the sea.  We even passed over scuba divers unaware of us swimming through their bubbles above.  I now regret not having purchased an underwater camera to document some of the incredible sights.  

We only spent a couple of hours snorkeling, but ended up spending the entire day with our new friends.  Richard and Tiffany were kind enough to invite us back to their rental apartment to let us borrow the use of their shower.  For Alyson and I this meant more then I think they realized.  We haven’t washed under an indoor shower in nearly two months.  Standing beneath the continuous flow of fresh, clean water I could literally feel the thin layer of salt wash off my body and out of my hair.  We emerged from our wash feeling like new people.  I think we must have avoided swimming the whole next day just to enjoy the sensation of being completely clean just a little bit longer.  We marveled at their spacious apartment as we remembered the things like air conditioning, blenders, and cable television.  For us, this was like a vacation. 

We had learned that a local dive resort was hosting a Free Rum Punch social followed by an all-you-can-eat BBQ.  We all decided to go together.  The bartenders at the resort we not stingy at all with the free drinks.  We sat on the patio looking over the water and watched dolphins swim through the channel.  The sun began to set, but the rum continued to flow.  As night fell and the tiki torches were lit, we could smell the unmistakable aroma of barbequed meats being slowly cooked.  I purchased a meal ticket and brought back enough plates of food for Alyson and I to share.  The buffet was laid out with trays overflowing with BBQ’d chicken fish & pork, creamy mashed potatoes, cold crispy salads, steamed vegetables, warm breads,  exotic fruits, and a variety of sweet deserts.  Looking at the tables of food stretching out before me, I couldn’t help but being moved by its splendorous glory.  “Truly, I have found paradise.” I thought.

Tiffany and Richard at the Rum Punch Social.

The crew enjoying the free rum punch.

We returned from the bbq thoroughly and completely satisfied.  We had planned to spend the night at Richard and Tiffany’s sleeping in their spare bed…yes! an actual bed!  From the day we had spent, I was beginning to feel quite hedonistic.  It was a day filled with simple pleasures, but its one we’ll always remember.  Thanks again, guys!

The Spanish Yacht Captain:

On a separate occasion, we had the good fortune of making friends with Joe, a yacht captain from Barcelona.  We met Joe while visiting the small marina near Kralendjik.  Alyson had spotted him working on an impressive 86′Swan Racing Yacht, and when she overheard him speaking Spanish, she decided to strike up a conversation.  As it turns out, Joe looks after the boat for a wealthy Spanish family who periodically visits for holidays and vacations.  The family and his crew were away for the time being, so he invited us over the next afternoon to take a look at the boat.  Score!

We must have felt a little privileged to be visiting such an expensive yacht, because I noticed that we both made extra efforts to clean up a little.  Alyson spent what seemed like hours in the head getting ready, and I even shaved and dug through my locker to find my cleanest shirt.  We arrived at the dock, promptly on time.  Being a little intimidated, we were almost too nervous to knock on the hull to see if Joe was really home.  But he was, and he came up through the companionway welcoming us aboard.  This yacht  was designed to do some serious sailing.  Joe told us that they often compete in regattas, and he ended up getting his job as captain by crewing aboard during the races.  After sharing a small (but roomy) 36 foot boat between four people, we were overwhelmed by the space aboard and the size of the gear.  Check out some of these pictures we took from the deck:

Here is Alyson lounging on the deck. Thats Joe on the starboard side. This boat was very beamy at 20 feet wide.

Look how enormous this winch is compared to Alyson's dainty hands.

John on a Swan86. Look at the size of the wheel. Its nearly 6 foot in diameter.

As you can see, its a BIG boat.  The boomvang is hydraulically controlled, and the winches are all electric.  In the cockpit lockers, Joe showed us where they store 8 sets of scuba diving equipment, a secondary dinghy, and an additional 25 Hp outboard motor!  On a boat, thats an unbelievable amount of space.  Below deck was just as impressive.  It had all the comforts of a nice home, but the designers managed to abstain from any tacky opulence.  Everything was laid out with the intention that this boat was meant to do some serious sailing.  The salon had surround sound stereo and a large, flat screen television.  The galley was larger than any kitchen Alyson or I had ever had in our apartment days, and it contained 4 separate fridges with an ice maker.  There were 4 heads, 4 cabins and a large, luxurious master cabin in the aft.  The nav. station was incredible with 3 separate monitor displays.  We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the spacious, air conditioned salon talking with Joe and watching his old racing videos.  If you can handle the lifestyle and work schedule, yacht captain would definitely be a sweet gig to have.  Days later we bumped into Joe in the grocery store.  He was buying his dinner for the night, which included 2 bottles of wine, a bag of shrimp, a loaf of French bread and some boxed chocolate.  “Here’s a guy who knows how to enjoy his work,” we thought.  

The South African Cruisers:

This blog would not be complete without mentioning Otto and Lily, a young South African couple on their boat Vagabond.  We actually met Otto and Lily while in Tortuga.  They were anchored right near us, and we had paid them a visit to ask about the weather.  We instantly liked them then, and we were excited to bump into them again on the streets of Bonaire.  They are the type of people who make you feel comfortable to be with, and their just so damn cool!  We spent a couple of days snorkeling together, and they got me really interested in free diving.  They both free dive quite often, and allowed me to borrow a weight belt and fins so that I could give it a try.  Its amazing how the right gear can make all the difference.  After weeks of snorkeling on the surface while watching the scuba divers swim along the bottom, I could finally dive down and swim along with them.  I got some up close views of the brain coral and stag horn coral teaming with tropical fish.  I was impressed at how long Otto could remain under water.  He seemed ready to live down there.  

In those few days we saw an incredible array of sea life:  There were dozens upon dozens of brightly colored fish striped in dark black and brilliant yellows, deep blues and flashing pinks.  We saw colorful eels that slithered along the sandy bottom and one reclusive octopus cowering beneath the rocks.  Gliding through the water on feathery wing like fins were green and purple parrot fish who chomped at the coral with their powerful beaks.  Alyson saw a tiny camouflaged sea horse clinging by his tail to the coral, trying to hold itself against the strong currents.  There were immense tarpons and six foot barracuda.  We saw a family of squid with large conscious eyes that hovered in the water like some strange, alien life form.  On the rocks along the waters edge sunbathed the dry and scaly hordes of iguana, and gliding silently through the anchorages swam the swift and graceful hornbill sea turtles.  “Why didn’t I buy an underwater camera?”

These iguanas lounge all along the water front.

Since we’ve been out hopping and jaunting, we’ve met numerous people and made some good friends.  Alyson and I have been pretty pleased at how friendly and helpful most people are.  Aside from one enterprising cab driver who was a little uncooperative, the majority of folks we’ve dealt with are very nice, honest, and fair.  Of course, we still keep on guard when dealing with new people…just in case.  I suppose if I had to leave any advice for the aspiring traveler, when dealing with people abroad keep a good attitude, use your common sense, and don’t be afraid to try something new…and also send postcards.

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The crew of Hop and Jaunt enjoying the beach.

Our next destination, as we headed west, was the small archipelago of Los Roques or “The Rocks”.  It is a group of islands that sit very low in the Caribbean Sea north of the coast of Venezuela and eastward of the reknowned ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, & Curacao).  The islands are surrounded by shallows of reefs and is kept as a Venezuelan National Marine Park.  It is reputed to be one of the best marine parks in the Caribbean.  The passage from Tortuga was pretty calm.  We left about midday and sailed throughout the night.  Our only difficulty came about a mile off shore of our approach to the narrow channel between the reefs on the southeastern side of the island chains.  As fate would have it, this was the moment when our water pump on the diesel shredded its impeller and brought our faithful Mercedes engine to a halt.  The damaged impeller (being the result of some shoddy workmanship done in Trinidad) left us floating between the winds and the reefs with nothing but sail.  Fortunately, for Quercus and the crew, the Skipper had the foresight to have installed a backup electric water pump that was connected within mere minutes.  With danger averted we made our way slowly along the channel and into the inviting anchorages of Los Roques.

This is a map of the Los Roques Island Chain. We entered through the narrow channel at Boca de Sebastopol and motored up along the reefs to Crasqui Island where we anchored.

Los Roques is really a fascinating place to see.  Beauty from horizon to horizon.  The water is deep (we anchored in nearly 25 ft) and so clear that the sandy bottom was easily visible.  The sandbars and shallows of the bay glowed with a bright aqua green in stark contrast to the dark blues and indigos of the deeps.  The land was outlined with sandy white shores and green vegetation in the form of mangroves and palms.  Our anchorage at Crasqui Island was nearly in the center of the archipelago and the islands and beaches surrounded us in nearly every direction.  It was a relatively quiet place.  There were a few small restaurants and Posadas (or inns) along the beach front.  Our only neighbors were a couple of large fishing boats and one other American sailboat.  It was so quiet and tranquil the first couple of days that at times it felt like we were the only ones there.  Having spent the past month sailing through such amazing places, I began to notice how accustomed we were becoming to the beauty of each place.  All of our conversations started sounding more repetitive and less sincere ( “Look at how pretty the beach is.”, “Look at that pretty sunset.”, “Isn’t the water pretty?”)

The beaches of Los Roques.

After spending a couple of relaxing days at anchor, we were surprised one morning to find large crowds of people on the beach.  The groups were brought in on small open pirro boats along with their beach chairs and umbrellas.  I assume that the largest island Gran Roques must have a hotel near the airport where Venezuelan vacationers come to enjoy a little holiday.  On this morning Alyson and I went up to the beach to enjoy the surf and sun.  The winds were rather still and the sun was so bright, it was a perfect day to spend enjoying the scenery and the beach.  We all piled into the dinghy and motored ashore to join the rest of the crowd.  I have to admit beforehand that this was one of my favorite days since we’ve been out.  Alyson and I walked down the white beaches (with sand as soft as flour) until we came across the perfect spot.  As I’ve said there were many people on the beach that day, and laying out on their blankets right beside us was a group of young and lovely Venezuelan girls sunbathing topless.  (Bless their hearts).  These young ladies were not shy.  They would frolic with each other in the water, rolling in the sand and the waves while laughing and bouncing.  It was some of the best wildlife I’ve spotted so far.  At one point a flock of sea gulls descended on their blanket and it sent them running around and screaming.  The bravest of the bunch attempted to shoo the birds away by running into the flock and then began barking, which was a pretty funny sight.  Perhaps the girls weren’t too bright, but they did put on an entertaining show.  Enough to distract us from the beauty of the islands, which was rather amazing anyhow.

The beach was lined with people that day.  Men in speedos and women in thongs (or occasionally topless).  In my surf shorts and Alyson in her bikini, we began to feel a little overdressed.  Mostly it was couples or small groups of friends.  Young handsome men and sexy women were everywhere we looked.  I did find it strange though that we passed one loner.  He was so noticeable because he stuck out like a sore thumb amongst the young, tan couples.  I saw him as we walked along the beach.  There he sat alone in a tiny beach chair, underneath a tiny beach umbrella.  He was pale white and chubby and looked familiarly like Andy Richter.  He looked so pitiful sitting there by himself with an awkward frown as he tried desperately to ignore the Venezuelan lovers making-out in the sand right next to him.  (The woman of course topless and in a thong).  His story was one I would have liked to known.  How did he wind up there, in such a remote place, alone amongst all those couples?  I bet he’s an interesting person.

Being in remote places can make it difficult to keep in contact and communication with the outside world.  Not only is email a virtual impossibility (without SSB) it also becomes difficult to receive updated and accurate weather forecasts.  The winds had been steadily constant since we left Grenada.  The frequent gusts in the late afternoons and early evenings gave us concern for sailing out onto the sea with no prior knowledge of the wind conditions or sea states.  In situations like this, you have to rely on the kindness of others.  Alyson and I were recruited to pay a visit to our American neighbors on their yacht Evening Star in order to find any information on the weather.  There we met an extremely nice couple, Mike and Barbara.  They welcomed us into their boat by giving us cold drinks and a tour of their 47′ Fuji sail boat.  The people you meet is usually one of the best parts of traveling and Mike and Barbara were no exception.  Naturally they asked us where we were from and I proudly told them “Andalusia, Alabama”.  I was floored to hear Mike reply, “Oh yeah, right there by Opp”.  I am beginning to lose track of the times I have heard other cruisers mention to me the internationally renowned “Andaluisa-Opp Airport“.  Apparently, my little home town holds a much more prominent position in the world than I had ever realized, and I love hearing people telling me they’ve been there.  It fills me with pride for that place and makes me a little less homesick to talk about it while I grin from ear to ear.  I also have to give credit to Lynyrd Skynyrd for making Alabama famous among the international community.  Usually telling people I’m from Alabama gets me the reply of the first chorus line of “Sweet Home Alabama”.

Mike and Barbara not only got us the weather forecasts we desperately needed, but they also educated us on how to use our SSB radio to receive broadcasts of the Chris Parker weather reports for the Caribbean everyday.  This was a big help and took out a lot of the guess work in our planning.  They were also a wealth of information on the local area.  The largest island of Gran Roques has a lot to offer the boating community.  Fuel, water, garbage collection, and groceries are readily available.  It isn’t uncommon for many yachties to spend a few weeks in Los Roques exploring the different islands and anchorages.  Its also a popular spot among Venezuelan boaters and sports fishermen.  Within days the quiet shoreline of Crasqui Island began to fill up with fishing boats and large power yachts of the Venezuelan elite.  Kite surfing is very popular here too.  We saw a few small sailboats come in with surfers who must cruise around just kite surfing along the windward islands of the Caribbean.  The protected waters and frequent winds must make it an ideal place to surf and check out the scenery.

As the week ended we prepared to pull anchor and continue on.  Alyson and I would definitely like to revisit Los Roques one day and continue to explore the reefs and isles.  Perhaps one day on a boat of our own; but at this time our tanks needed water, we needed to contact family, and I think we were all anxious for a cold drink and a cheeseburger.  (We hadn’t had much meat to eat since leaving Margarita a week and a half ago).  The weather window seemed right for making the trip, so we headed out on a Saturday, June 20.  By Sunday afternoon we would be in the Netherland’s famous island of Bonaire.

Check out some of our photos below.

These are a series of rocks and coral stacked up into towers. Oddly enough we've seen variations of this practice in various location around the globe.

This is one of the basic but inviting beach Posadas where you can cool off or get a quick drink.

Look at that pretty smile.

Here's Quercus at her anchor.

Some of our neighbors. The elite of Venezuela on their Mega Yachts came up for the weekend.

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It’s been a while since we’ve been able to get online and do we have A LOT to update about! We sailed from Grenada 4 weeks ago and today we are sitting here in a Watta Burger (not the American chain but a Dutch burger place) in Bonaire!

John and The Captain On Watch

The Fishing Village Of Los Testigos

After setting sail from Grenada we had a slightly rough 24hr trip to Los Testigos.  Los Testigos (which means The Testifiers for those smirking) are two beautiful small islands that jet out of the ocean between Grenada and Venezuela. The first thing that you notice, other than the extremely picturesque little fishing village on the sandy white beach is how crystal clear the water is under the boat. You can look down into 20-40 feet of water and you can see everything on the bottom as if you were in an aquarium. There are fish of every size and color swimming around. Another thing we noticed in a real hurry was how cold the water was! We have been spoiled by how warm the waters were in Grenada so our perception of ‘cold’ may be a bit off but it was very refreshing to say the least. Once while John and I were snorkeling off the reefs we came upon a giant Sting Ray swimming right under us! We gave it a side berth though, the stinger being longer than I am.



Los Testigos are two small islands. Thus there is little flat land, just in front of the beach where about 20 little colorful houses were the fishermen live. Across the bay is another similar but smaller island with another 30 houses, a coast guard station, a little school, and a guy’s store room acting as the grocery when the supply boat arrives. The islands have no fresh surface water on them so they must survive on collecting rain water and water makers if one can afford it.

Manta Ray

On another day while walking the beach in front of the fishing village we came upon a giant Manta Ray that the fishermen had caught earlier. It was an amazing creature with a wingspan over 6 feet long. These gentle giants of the ocean are also a delicacy to these fishermen. I would love to find one while snorkeling or diving next time, not tied up by the beach waiting to become dinner. But to these fishermen who live off the ocean for survival and eat fish for nearly every meal I can see how a rare catch like this would be a god send.



We were anchored next to two other boats while there, one with a French couple and another with a Swiss couple onboard. For the four or five days that we were there the Frenchman would bring us over his daily catch of Bonita fish. The first night was a delicacy but by the fourth night we had to toss the fish under cover of night! So I can empathize with the fishermen a little on this point! John went out with Rene the Frenchman one afternoon and came back with a few for dinner as well!

The Fishermen

However, the most amazing thing by far in Los Testigos is that there is a beach on the windward side of the island where the giant sea turtles come to lay their eggs!
To get there you must climb this steep incline of a sand dune over the island. Once you get over the hill there is this plateau of sand for about a half a mile before you get to the beach. It is on the windward side, which means that unlike the “Caribbean Postcard” side we are on this side looks wild and untamed. The wind blows the shrubs into sharp angles and the waves carve intricate and sharp shapes into the ground. There are no people either.

The Fishermen

On this dramatic background late at night the sea turtles emerge out of the ocean to begin another chapter in their cycle of life. We got there around 9pm with a couple of flashlights. There is no guarantee when and if they are to show up. Luckily within ten min. of walking up and down the beach we spy a large figure slowly making it’s way up the beach. Then another! We had two turtles!!

One was an older turtle that appeared to be crying (some say due to water pollution in the world sea turtles are now showing up with eye cancer, causing the eyes to ‘cry’ continuously and slowly blinding the great turtles). She pulls her great bulk up the beach slowly. Earlier that day we had found these great tracks on the beach and had at first thought that a truck had been driving in the sand. When she is a good 30 feet from the water’s edge she begins to dig her hole. Now out of the water these giants are slow and ungraceful. I amazed when the turtle began digging her hole with her back flipper. Even with her bulk in the way she managed to scoop out a hole in the ground with such skill and sensitivity that would have seemed impossible watching her crawl earlier. The hole is about the size of a dinner plate in width but she slowly and carefully digs until the hole reaches a good foot or two down. She packs the sand so hard that even with her weight over it never crumbles. When the hole is compete she then began digging out this chamber at the bottom. I sat there mesmerized at the skill and dexterity I saw in her flippers. I doubt many people with thumbs could have built a better underground chamber in only 20mins. When the chamber was done she moves over the hole, protecting any openings with one of her back flippers and began laying eggs into her other flipper. She would use her free flipper to gently catch the eggs and place them into the chamber.



This went on for a while and when we finally got to peek in we saw that there were around 50 ping pong sized eggs nestled into the chamber. Once done she quickly covers up the hole, and moves enough sand around that even with us standing there I doubt we could point out exactly where the hole might have been. The young one by now was about done and began heading off to the ocean to continue her journey but the older one that I had developed a liking to was having difficulty finding the ocean. Also during the whole process she was the only one making any noise, I’ve ever heard of turtles moaning but this one was definitely moaning and groaning while having her babies! Perhaps because of her age or cancer stricken eyes she would get half way to the ocean, get confused, and end up turning around towards the land. We watched this go on for a while until we were so affected that we began cheering for her and wishing her towards the sea. Finally I grabbed an empty bottle that had been washed ashore and filled it with ocean water. I would splash her with the water from the direction of the ocean and she began following it until she too was safely splashing in the waves. John and I stood there and watched her work her way out towards the ocean. I have to say that night is one of those nights that I will remember for the rest of my life.

Lobster Dinner By The Ocean

P.S. There is a little green house on a hill where Hermano and his family run a little restaurant on his front patio called the “Casa Verde.” On the last night on the island John and I treated ourselves to his lobster dinner! Fresh caught mmm~hmmm~!

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A few days ago Alyson and I decided to do a tour of the island. It was a very windy day on the boat and conditions weren’t really good for doing any of the boat jobs we had planned for the day. As we get further into the summer months the winds have seemed to pick up much more here. The Skipper decided to give everyone a rest day in which we could do whatever we wanted. Alyson and I had talked about going around the island and taking in the sights, so we decided that we would go ashore and do a little exploring of the mainland.

Our plan was really vague. We weren’t sure where to start. We could hire a driver or rent a car of our own for around $100 US, but we eventually decided it would work out cheaper for us to just take the bus. We threw a few personal items into a backpack (camera, sunglasses, sunscreen, towels) and Donna gave us a ride to shore. There is a small town on the east side of the island called Grenville. We decided this would be our first stop although we weren’t really sure what we would find there.

We were dropped off at a little French marina ‘Whisper Cove” and hiked up the steep Grenadian hills to the main road. We were told there is a bus stop to Grenville located near a fruit stand on down the road. The day was already starting to warm up and after half an hour of walking there was still no fruit stand in sight. We eventually decided to hail a bus.

First let me explain how the buses in Grenada work. First of all, they are not the giant silver greyhounds or large yellow school buses that instantly come to the mind upon hearing the word bus. Think much smaller. They are more a kin to a mini van, but this doesn’t stop them from packing up to 18 people inside or more. The Grenadian bus drivers are very serious about collecting fares and seldom will turn a passenger away. We have been on buses that were packed with every seat filled, and we would still continue to pick up people. “Everyone suck in your guts and hold your breath.” I’m not complaining though. It beats walking and sitting in someone else’s lap is a great way to meet people. Once on a bus ride we were actually pulled over by a fat police officer because our bus was over capacity. Even I was surprised. We could have easily fit 5 or 6 more people in there. Making a stop is a little difficult when a passenger in the back needs off. The bus practically empties out and reloads every time.

Anyhow, if you happen to be walking down a Grenadian street or country road, eventually you will hear the short little beep of the bus. If you wanna ride, just hold up your hand and they will stop and happily make room (by any means necessary). So it came to be that after our brisk morning hike, we caught our first bus which took us on down the road to the small fruit stand that sits at the intersection where we could catch our next bus to Grenville. The bus ride cost $2.50 EC (Eastern Caribbean Dollars) or $5 EC for the both of us. $1 EC is exactly $2.67 US.

While at the fruit stand we decided to grab something for breakfast. This particular little stand offers delicious banana smoothies for $5 EC, so we had two. The lady was very sweet and so nice and she made sensational smoothies; however I couldn’t take my eyes off this little growth that dangled off her left hand. It was the size of a pecan and hung from a long piece of loose skin. I hoped she didn’t notice my stares, but I couldn’t take my eyes away from it (whatever it was) as it swung and flopped around as she made our drinks. I kept imagining it plunging into my smoothie and dipping back out. A cowardly thought I know, but I decided not to let my own ridiculous paranoia ruin my breakfast. It was perfect and I would definitely recommend it to all my friends (all of you). I drank every bit.

We caught the next bus shortly after. A ride to Grenville on this bus is $4 EC a person, so once again $8 EC for us both. Its really quite a nice way to see the country. Since there isn’t adequate air conditioning on the bus, they open up the large sliding windows and you get a really nice 50 mph breeze. The scenery is incredible as well. Towering hills covered in green jungle vegetation and on down the cliffs below to the open expanse of the sea. Brace yourself for the ride. The bus drivers know their routes very well and take the winding mountain roads at break neck speeds. It gives you the sensation of riding a roller coaster through the jungle, and almost made me regret not renting a car of our own. Although I admit that I’m too cautious a driver to speed along with the same enthusiasm.

It was about a 45 minute ride to Grenville including several stops. Luckily the bus wasn’t crowded so we enjoyed the large back seat all to ourselves for a good part of the way. When we arrived at Grenville we weren’t sure what to do next. This was a far as we had planned, so we decided to take a short walk around the town. Apparently, this is the place to buy DVDs. Street vendors are set up nearly every 5 feet selling their stock of movies, games and cds. We browsed a few stands, but decided that if we didn’t purchase DVDs when we had a tv, couch and player there really wasn’t much sense in building our collection now. The selection varies as well. You can purchase DVDs for movies that haven’t even been released yet in the States. You can also have your pick of the countless terrible movies as well. Since Alyson and I aren’t very keen on shopping, we didn’t stay at the stalls for very long. We are trying to travel as light as possible now anyways. We asked a security guard near the gate of a fishing harbor for a recommendation for lunch and he pointed us towards a cafeteria called the Melting Pot located upstairs above a small clothing boutique just a few blocks away. We thanked him and went on our way. On the walk there I found the strangest mens bathroom. It was built on the waters edge just beside the jagged rocks that tumble down into the bay. The bathroom must have been destroyed in a past storm, so when you walk through the door you stand looking out over the water. There was not much left of the structure. I wondered if anyone ever fell over the edge when going to the head at night.

At the Melting Pot we had a great lunch. Some of the best local food I’ve had on the island. For $35 EC we received two plates filled with Bar-B-Que Fish, Chicken, Cole Slaw, Stir Fry Vegetables, Macaroni Pie, Rice and a couple of Tings to drink. Ting is citrusy soda like a Sprite or 7up. I like Ting, but even more I like ordering Ting in the Caribbean. “ Give me some Ting to drink, man.” We discussed our options over lunch and decided that since shopping and vending was all there appeared to be in Grenville, we would make use of the rest of the day and try to go as far north on the island as possible. We got out our map and made plans to head north to the village of Sauteurs next. Alyson went to the bathroom to freshen up, while I decided what to do with our empty plates and trays. I didn’t see any waitresses or any place visibly marked for returning your plates. I decided it would be best to just leave them where they were. As I stood up a young girl walked over and looked as if she were going to bus our table, so I began to walk off. I hadn’t gone 3 steps when I heard her shout, “Security! Security!” I turned to stare at her with a blank look on my face. Out of nowhere 3 security guards surrounded us at the table. “My God, what have I done?” I thought. Surely, not busing your own table may be considered rude, but not illegal. The guards stared at me with suspicion until the young lady began making small talk with them inquiring about their after work plans for the day. I suppose she wanted to get their attention, but it nearly scared the Ting out of me.

Once we were back out on the street we asked a few vendors to point us in the direction of the bus terminal. A word of caution when boarding a bus at the terminal. Be prepared to wait. The bus drivers do not like to leave until every seat is full, which is quite a lot of seats to fill. There is fierce competition for passengers too. Once they knew we where headed for Sauters everyone wanted us on their bus. “Hey! Hey! Over here!” “No, No. You ride over here!” Even buses not headed to Sauteurs were trying to get us to climb in. Knowing that we would have to wait for the bus to fill, we climbed into the one with the most passengers. Unfortunately is was only half full (optimist) and it took another 20 minutes of waiting before we left. This also meant that the ride up the rest of the island would be on a loaded bus, but for a fare of only $4.50 EC a person it was a bargain.

If you ever go to Grenada, I highly recommend Sauteurs as a destination. Aside from Hog Island (Hog Heaven), Sauteurs is my favorite spot. It is situated at the north tip of the country, and its beautiful. We visited a little place called Leaper’s Hill. The island was once inhabited by a group of indians called the Caribs. When the French came in 1650 they fought the Caribs to the point of defeat. Rather than surrender the remaining Caribs jumped from a cliff and landed on the rocks below. Sauteurs is French for Jumpers. The island has changed hands many times in its history. The Caribs had driven out the original inhabitants the Arawaks, then the Caribs were replaced by the French, the French replaced by the English, then the French again, then the English again, then it Grenada became its own country and was at one time invaded by the United States. I suppose every body wants a piece of that sweet “Spice Isle” action.

We found a quaint little cafe/snackshop/nice restaurant to grab a few drinks. For $4 EC each we ordered a Carib beer and found a spot with the most ocean breeze. Alyson’s advice: “Girls, don’t wear anything other than waterproof mascara..and in this humidity that’s not even guarantee to stay on!” I suppose it was obvious that we were a little hot as the waitress gave us not only our cold beer but a couple of glasses with ice to pour it in as well. The afternoon was winding down and we were on the opposite side of the island. The buses on the island stop sometime after sundown and since we were in the boonies we decided that we better get back to St. George. After another 20min wait on a bench in the blazing sun we finally caught another bus headed south. This time in order to complete the tour we rode down the west side of the island through Gouyave. Gouyave is a fishing village famous in Grenada for it’s Fish Friday Festival. By this time the bus was finally emptying out so we grabbed the backseat and enjoyed the scenery as if it were our private tour bus.

That pretty much covers our around the island tour. Our tally for the day:
Bus Ride for two to Fruit Stand: $5 EC
Two Banana Smoothies: $10 EC
Bus Ride for two to Grenville: $8 EC
Lunch for Two: $35 EC
Bus Ride to Sauteurs: $9 EC
Drinks in Sauteurs: $8 EC
Bus Ride back to St. Georges: $13 EC

Total Trip: $88 EC or $32.96 US. Not a bad price to see a country.

Here are a few photos of our recent days:

Here I am with Rusty.  We went to his owner (Neil)’s boat and Rusty wanted to go with us up to the beach so he jumped in our dinghy with us.  He’s the perfect sailing dog.

John and Rusty

This is a photo of us with a really cool Irish couple we met.  John and Shelly are here on holiday.  They really know how to travel and gave us several good tips on how to it should be done.  Thanks, guys!

John, Aly, Shelly, and John

This band plays at the cruiser barbeque on Hog Island on Sundays.  The singer in the cowboy hat is in the Canadian Rodeo Circuit.  A very interesting person.

Band on Hog Island

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