Hop & Jaunt’s Top Ten of 2009

Happy New Years from the Crew at Hop & Jaunt Travelouges!  We’re excited about the new adventures and travels that lay ahead in 2010.  But before we jaunt into the last year of the decade, lets hop back and take a look at some of our favorite experiences from the past year.   Its Hop & Jaunt’s Top Ten Favorite Adventures of 2009.

10.)  Beach Bumming at Roger’s Bar on Hog Island, Grenada

Roger’s Bar on Hog Island was our first Caribbean experience after joining Alyson’s parents on Quercus.  Roger’s ramshackle beach shack not only had the appearance of being thrown together with driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves, but it literally was put together with nothing more than driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves.  Many afternoon ’sundowners’ turned into late night ‘howl at the moon’ sessions underneath the glow of the single 12 Volt powered light bulb.  Live reggae music, sand between your toes and always a cold beer set the perfect mood for mingling and socializing with the  locals and sailors from around the world.  To read more click here.

9.)  Baby Sitting a Whale in Curacao

While boat sitting in Curacao we decided to try a little baby sitting as well.  We volunteered to watch after a 10 foot baby pilot whale that was being nursed back to health.  Sully the pilot whale was beached by his family after becoming too ill to keep up with the rest of his pod.  Efforts by local marine biologist and volunteers helped to restore the baby whale back to full health.  We spent a few nights lying by Sully’s pen keeping him company as he vied for our attention by requesting several belly rubs.  It was an experience we will always remember.  Unfortunately efforts to integrate Sully back into the wild have failed, and there are talks that he will be moved to a tank in Sea World, San Diego.  For more click here.
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Escape From Bahia Honda

Well, we’re back. Currently Alyson and I are staying in Cartagena, Colombia boat sitting once again aboard a 44’ Lagoon Catamaran. Its been nearly a month since we left Curacao heading west towards the South American continent, and its strange to think that we haven’t set foot on the mainland in nearly seven months. The passage along the Colombian coast was an interesting one. Sailing around the horn of Venezuela & Colombia is considered the 4th most dangerous passage in the world, or so I heard a couple of drunk sailors claim (Limited internet access restricts further verification of this statement at the moment). At any rate, we completed the trip safely, but not without our share of surprises and perilous encounters.

We departed from Curacao on a Thursday, October 22 just as the sun was setting. We had joined up as crew for a single handed skipper named Paul on his 36’ ketch, SunRunner.

Our destination for the first leg of the journey was Aruba, but we were all keen to explore some of the less traveled anchorages along the Colombian coast line. The winds were fair, and we were able to keep a steady 5 knots under headsail and mizzen throughout the duration of the trip. Our intentions were to arrive in Aruba shortly after morning light, anchor, and catch some sleep before making the big jump from Aruba to Colombia. We hadn’t even considered going ashore.

We dropped hook in the small anchorage at the southern tip of Aruba, and put on a pot of coffee. This was our first overnight passage in four months, and it left us all completely dog tired. We were looking forward to some well deserved rest. Unfortunately, before the water in the coffee pot even got hot, we were boarded by the Aruba Coast Guard. The welcome we received was not particularly hospitable. Due to increased security measures monitoring drug traffic between Colombia and Aruba, we were told that we must either sail 10 miles up the Aruba coast to clear in with customs or else leave immediately. Now ten miles is a relatively short distance, but when your sailboat averages about 4 to 5 miles an hour it becomes a pain in the ass to sail further for over two hours. Especially when all you want is some sleep. At any rate, we had no better option, so on we went.
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These are the people in your neighborhood

 

The time we spent in Bonaire, gave us the opportunity to make several new friends and meet up with old ones.  Since most boats sailing in the westward Antilles have to visit the same islands, you get the chance to see some of the same people over and over.  You come to remember them more by the name of the boat and less by the names of the actual people.  Here is a quick blog about some of our favorite people and most memorable days while in Bonaire.   

The Young American Vacationers:

Our first week in Bonaire we met Richard and Tiffany.  They are a young American couple from Springfield, Missouri who had come down to the island on vacation.  Tiffany, who is a dive master, had visited Bonaire before and had returned with Richard to share the experience.  We happened to bump into them while having sundowners at Krael’s dockside bar.  They rocked and exponentially improved the already great time we were having in Bonaire.  It was great to sit, have a few beers and talk with people our own age, especially such interesting people.  Tiffany has spent years diving and told us all the good spots to hit along the waters edge.  She even does spelonking or cave diving.  Richard was awesome, too.  He kept us entertained and laughing with stories of bar tending, his stand-up comedy, touring the states with his band, and driving an ambulance.  We had such a great time with them that we all decided to meet the next day to do some snorkeling together.

Late the next morning, we headed out together in Quercus’s little dinghy to a spot they recommended.  The reefs along the island sit under about 30 feet of water.  The water is so clear though that the fish and corals are clearly visible from the surface.  We swam along watching the countless varieties of tropical fish passing beneath us.  The colorful coral sloped out of visibility and into the dark blue backdrop of the sea.  We even passed over scuba divers unaware of us swimming through their bubbles above.  I now regret not having purchased an underwater camera to document some of the incredible sights.  

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Los Roques, “Life on the Rocks!”

Our next destination, as we headed west, was the small archipelago of Los Roques or “The Rocks”.  It is a group of islands that sit very low in the Caribbean Sea north of the coast of Venezuela and eastward of the reknowned ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, & Curacao).  The islands are surrounded by shallows of reefs and is kept as a Venezuelan National Marine Park.  It is reputed to be one of the best marine parks in the Caribbean.  The passage from Tortuga was pretty calm.  We left about midday and sailed throughout the night.  Our only difficulty came about a mile off shore of our approach to the narrow channel between the reefs on the southeastern side of the island chains.  As fate would have it, this was the moment when our water pump on the diesel shredded its impeller and brought our faithful Mercedes engine to a halt.  The damaged impeller (being the result of some shoddy workmanship done in Trinidad) left us floating between the winds and the reefs with nothing but sail.  Fortunately, for Quercus and the crew, the Skipper had the foresight to have installed a backup electric water pump that was connected within mere minutes.  With danger averted we made our way slowly along the channel and into the inviting anchorages of Los Roques.

Los Roques is really a fascinating place to see.  Beauty from horizon to horizon.  The water is deep (we anchored in nearly 25 ft) and so clear that the sandy bottom was easily visible.  The sandbars and shallows of the bay glowed with a bright aqua green in stark contrast to the dark blues and indigos of the deeps.  The land was outlined with sandy white shores and green vegetation in the form of mangroves and palms.  Our anchorage at Crasqui Island was nearly in the center of the archipelago and the islands and beaches surrounded us in nearly every direction.  It was a relatively quiet place.  There were a few small restaurants and Posadas (or inns) along the beach front.  Our only neighbors were a couple of large fishing boats and one other American sailboat.  It was so quiet and tranquil the first couple of days that at times it felt like we were the only ones there.  Having spent the past month sailing through such amazing places, I began to notice how accustomed we were becoming to the beauty of each place.  All of our conversations started sounding more repetitive and less sincere ( “Look at how pretty the beach is.”, “Look at that pretty sunset.”, “Isn’t the water pretty?”)

After spending a couple of relaxing days at anchor, we were surprised one morning to find large crowds of people on the beach.  The groups were brought in on small open pirro boats along with their beach chairs and umbrellas.  I assume that the largest island Gran Roques must have a hotel near the airport where Venezuelan vacationers come to enjoy a little holiday.  On this morning Alyson and I went up to the beach to enjoy the surf and sun.  The winds were rather still and the sun was so bright, it was a perfect day to spend enjoying the scenery and the beach.  We all piled into the dinghy and motored ashore to join the rest of the crowd.  I have to admit beforehand that this was one of my favorite days since we’ve been out.  Alyson and I walked down the white beaches (with sand as soft as flour) until we came across the perfect spot.  As I’ve said there were many people on the beach that day, and laying out on their blankets right beside us was a group of young and lovely Venezuelan girls sunbathing topless.  (Bless their hearts).  These young ladies were not shy.  They would frolic with each other in the water, rolling in the sand and the waves while laughing and bouncing.  It was some of the best wildlife I’ve spotted so far.  At one point a flock of sea gulls descended on their blanket and it sent them running around and screaming.  The bravest of the bunch attempted to shoo the birds away by running into the flock and then began barking, which was a pretty funny sight.  Perhaps the girls weren’t too bright, but they did put on an entertaining show.  Enough to distract us from the beauty of the islands, which was rather amazing anyhow.

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Arrival in Isla Margarita

The week we spent in Los Testigos passed rather quickly. Each day was filled with some new encounter or experience that made us both reluctant to leave and also excited to see the next location. We spent our days snorkeling in the crystal clear water amongst the colorful reefs filled with tropical fish, large jellies, and the occasional sting ray. At night we ate freshly caught fish and watched the sunset off to the west. Each day seemed to pass by with very little distraction by the means of internet, stores and shops, and traffic. However, we were destined to follow the sun west and on Tuesday morning, June 2nd we pulled up anchor and motored out of the channel.
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Los Testigos

It’s been a while since we’ve been able to get online and do we have A LOT to update about! We sailed from Grenada 4 weeks ago and today we are sitting here in a Watta Burger (not the American chain but a Dutch burger place) in Bonaire!

After setting sail from Grenada we had a slightly rough 24hr trip to Los Testigos.  Los Testigos (which means The Testifiers for those smirking) are two beautiful small islands that jet out of the ocean between Grenada and Venezuela. The first thing that you notice, other than the extremely picturesque little fishing village on the sandy white beach is how crystal clear the water is under the boat. You can look down into 20-40 feet of water and you can see everything on the bottom as if you were in an aquarium. There are fish of every size and color swimming around. Another thing we noticed in a real hurry was how cold the water was! We have been spoiled by how warm the waters were in Grenada so our perception of ‘cold’ may be a bit off but it was very refreshing to say the least. Once while John and I were snorkeling off the reefs we came upon a giant Sting Ray swimming right under us! We gave it a side berth though, the stinger being longer than I am.

Los Testigos are two small islands. Thus there is little flat land, just in front of the beach where about 20 little colorful houses were the fishermen live. Across the bay is another similar but smaller island with another 30 houses, a coast guard station, a little school, and a guy’s store room acting as the grocery when the supply boat arrives. The islands have no fresh surface water on them so they must survive on collecting rain water and water makers if one can afford it.

On another day while walking the beach in front of the fishing village we came upon a giant Manta Ray that the fishermen had caught earlier. It was an amazing creature with a wingspan over 6 feet long. These gentle giants of the ocean are also a delicacy to these fishermen. I would love to find one while snorkeling or diving next time, not tied up by the beach waiting to become dinner. But to these fishermen who live off the ocean for survival and eat fish for nearly every meal I can see how a rare catch like this would be a god send.

We were anchored next to two other boats while there, one with a French couple and another with a Swiss couple onboard. For the four or five days that we were there the Frenchman would bring us over his daily catch of Bonita fish. The first night was a delicacy but by the fourth night we had to toss the fish under cover of night! So I can empathize with the fishermen a little on this point! John went out with Rene the Frenchman one afternoon and came back with a few for dinner as well!

However, the most amazing thing by far in Los Testigos is that there is a beach on the windward side of the island where the giant sea turtles come to lay their eggs! (more…)

Cruising People

We are heading into our final week(s) here in Grenada. Everyday we have been working on the boat and finishing up final tasks to prepare her for the passage. We have also been trying to get online for the past week but every time something has thwarted our attempts, so we will keep trying and will be posting as we catch any internet signals! We are heading south west hitting La Blanquila, Los Roques, the ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao) and eventually to Cartegena, Colombia.

But the plans of sailors are even more prone to change than those of average mice and men. The first leg of our journey will take us on a 30-40hr passage cutting across the southern Caribbean above Venezuela. What is ironic is that we are skirting above Venezuela and heading towards Columbia. What I mean by that is only a few years ago Venezuela was the hot destination point for most cruisers and Columbia was a must miss. However the world never stands still and the recent rise of pirates and political unrest in Venezuela combined with the increasingly calm and stable atmosphere in Columbia is reversing the tide of visiting cruisers. Cartegenea has been especially proactive in trying to create a peaceful atmosphere in order to entice visitors. There will be many stops along the world famous islands along the way and we will be looking for wifi to share the pictures and stories as we go.

While we spend most of the daylight hours working on the boat and occasionally jumping off the side to cool off we have been hanging out on the beach at night listening to the stories of other world travelers and cruisers. What makes travel by boat so unique than any other form is that each boat is its’ own little universe, and the people on them always have such distinct and fascinating stories. Take for example this Italian woman we have met anchored off the beach of Hog Island. (more…)

Grenada “the Spice Isle”

Two days ago we left New Orleans and flew to Grenada. Our good friend Scott who lives in downtown N.O. put us up for a few days and drove us to the airport. Grenada is a small little island in the Caribbean down near the end of the Lesser Antilles. Its also know as the “Spice Isle”.
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