Happy New Years from the Crew at Hop & Jaunt Travelouges!  We’re excited about the new adventures and travels that lay ahead in 2010.  But before we jaunt into the last year of the decade, lets hop back and take a look at some of our favorite experiences from the past year.   Its Hop & Jaunt’s Top Ten Favorite Adventures of 2009.

10.)  Beach Bumming at Roger’s Bar on Hog Island, Grenada

Roger's Beach Bar - Hog Island, Grenada

Roger’s Bar on Hog Island was our first Caribbean experience after joining Alyson’s parents on Quercus.  Roger’s ramshackle beach shack not only had the appearance of being thrown together with driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves, but it literally was put together with nothing more than driftwood, bamboo and palm leaves.  Many afternoon ‘sundowners’ turned into late night ‘howl at the moon’ sessions underneath the glow of the single 12 Volt powered light bulb.  Live reggae music, sand between your toes and always a cold beer set the perfect mood for mingling and socializing with the  locals and sailors from around the world.  To read more click here.

9.)  Baby Sitting a Whale in Curacao

Giving baby Sully a tummy rub.

While boat sitting in Curacao we decided to try a little baby sitting as well.  We volunteered to watch after a 10 foot baby pilot whale that was being nursed back to health.  Sully the pilot whale was beached by his family after becoming too ill to keep up with the rest of his pod.  Efforts by local marine biologist and volunteers helped to restore the baby whale back to full health.  We spent a few nights lying by Sully’s pen keeping him company as he vied for our attention by requesting several belly rubs.  It was an experience we will always remember.  Unfortunately efforts to integrate Sully back into the wild have failed, and there are talks that he will be moved to a tank in Sea World, San Diego.  For more click here.

8.)  Oil Down in the Jungle

Hiking into the Jungle for an Oil Down Party

One of the most authentically local island days we’ve had. We joined a young group of locals and sailors for a cook out by the jungle rivers up in the mountains of Grenada. The dish we cooked was a local delicacy called an “oil down” because the different oils sink to the bottom of the pot.  As Grenada is one of the famed ‘spice isles’ we drove through the island picking up our fresh ingredients from along the road, people’s yards, and in the trees.  After a hike through the jungle with our pots pots, herbs, and breadfruit we jumped in the river to cool down before building a fire and cooking our very own “oil down” in the jungle. Click here to read more.

Cooking Oil Down in the Jungle

7.)  Windsurfing in Curacao

Windsurf Curacao

While anchored in Spanish Waters in Curacao, we were constantly watching windsurfers whizz by us.  So when we were given the opportunity to learn ourselves, we jumped all over it! Though I would not say we were exactly graceful during our first lessons we did manage to pick up the basics and enjoyed surfing past our friends on the sailboats.  To read more click here.

6.)  Scootering Around Bonaire

Our Macho Scooter from Bonaire

One of our most favorite days was just riding around the small Dutch island of Bonaire on our rented scooter.  Speeding on the curvy roads alongside breathtaking cliffs that plunge down into the blue-green sea was an incredible way to see the island.  We spotted ponds of flamingos, scattering iguanas, and the occasional wild donkey.  Nothing like having the salty sea wind whip by your face as you race full speed through the desert.  We also enjoyed Bonaire for the unbelievable snorkeling.  The underwater wildlife was other-worldly yet beautiful.  Its definitely somewhere we would like to visit again.  For more photos and video click here.

5.)  Scuba Diving in Curacao

Spotted Eagle Ray

Speaking of breathtaking sea life we can’t forget to mention our scuba excursions off the coast of Curacao.  Thanks to our good friend and dive instructor Andy along with some money earned by cleaning boat bottoms, we were able to obtain our Scuba certifications.  The sensation of being 65 feet below the sea’s surface is both tranquil and intense.  The imagery we saw would be difficult to explain in words.  I can only recommend that you do it for yourself.  The fish and coral are like living works of art.  One moment in particular that stands out for us was our very first time diving together.  It was just Alyson and I…and one curious Spotted Eagle Ray.  The sight of that giant ray gracefully flying through the water as he circled us was awesome.  For more Curacao adventures click here.

4.)  Festivals in Cartagena

Festival Parade in Cartagena

Everyone loves a good party, and no one does it quite like Cartagena.  The beautiful old world city is the perfect setting for the week long celebration of parades, fireworks, and concerts.  We had a blast hanging out with our good friends as we all joined in the fun.  The festivities were filled with amazing costumes and dances with plenty of good food and beer, not to mention the all out foam wars.  A not to miss for those energetic enough to last the never ending fiestas.  Plenty of photos and videos here.

3.)  Sailing the Seas

Alyson tanning on deck.

The only way to travel, there is nothing like coming into port by sailboat.  While we have been to some amazing places and done some pretty cool things, one of our favorite parts was just getting from point  A to B.  At times it was relaxing and easy going.  Other times we were wet, tired, and struggling to keep wind in the sails.  Still we love it.  The splashing of dolphins on the bow.  Catching fish underway.  And being alone in the cockpit on a late night watch with just the millions of brilliant stars above.  If you ever want to have an experience of a lifetime…then go to sea.

Click here for more tales of the Spanish Main.

2.)  Turtle Watching in Los Testigos

Watching the Turtles Lay Eggs

We will always remember that dark night on the east coast of Testigos when we watched the giant, dinosaur-like sea turtles emerge from the crashing sea waves.  Their immense size and prehistoric appearance reminded us of how enormous and old the world really is.  Its important to have moments like that every once in a while.  We were also surprised by the gentle nature and careful precision of such an odd and slow animal.  These turtle mothers plan their nests with the most patient manner.  They are actually quite capable of digging with incredible accuracy.  Not to mention the delicate care they treat each egg with.  The whole experience was in a word…beautiful.

Click here to read more.

1.)  Our Secret Cove

Alyson Drinking Coconut Milk at Secret Cove

Everyone out traveling and sailing is looking for that one paradise spot.  The one isolated, remote, and private place that makes you say, “this will always be our spot”, and from then on when you think of paradise its the image that comes to mind.  Ours was secret cove.  Sailing along the Colombian coast and through the morning mist we were awed by the landscape before us:  Beaches, rainforests, water falls, and snow capped mountains.  We spent nearly a week in Secret Cove enjoying the snorkeling, dinghy sailing, beach BBQs, midnight rows, and being away from the rest of the world. You know, this spot actually has it’s own name, but it will always be our secret cove.

See more amazing photos and video of ‘Our Secret Cove’ here.

Beach BBQ at Secret Cove

If you would like to go back and read the blogs about each of these places just click on the link after each paragraph.  Thanks to all our readers who have followed us this year and to all our good friends we’ve made along the way.  We hope you all have a Happy New Years and look forward to seeing you again soon in 2010.

Well, we’re back. Currently Alyson and I are staying in Cartagena, Colombia boat sitting once again aboard a 44’ Lagoon Catamaran. Its been nearly a month since we left Curacao heading west towards the South American continent, and its strange to think that we haven’t set foot on the mainland in nearly seven months. The passage along the Colombian coast was an interesting one. Sailing around the horn of Venezuela & Colombia is considered the 4th most dangerous passage in the world, or so I heard a couple of drunk sailors claim (Limited internet access restricts further verification of this statement at the moment). At any rate, we completed the trip safely, but not without our share of surprises and perilous encounters.

We departed from Curacao on a Thursday, October 22 just as the sun was setting. We had joined up as crew for a single handed skipper named Paul on his 36’ ketch, SunRunner.

Our destination for the first leg of the journey was Aruba, but we were all keen to explore some of the less traveled anchorages along the Colombian coast line. The winds were fair, and we were able to keep a steady 5 knots under headsail and mizzen throughout the duration of the trip. Our intentions were to arrive in Aruba shortly after morning light, anchor, and catch some sleep before making the big jump from Aruba to Colombia. We hadn’t even considered going ashore.

We dropped hook in the small anchorage at the southern tip of Aruba, and put on a pot of coffee. This was our first overnight passage in four months, and it left us all completely dog tired. We were looking forward to some well deserved rest. Unfortunately, before the water in the coffee pot even got hot, we were boarded by the Aruba Coast Guard. The welcome we received was not particularly hospitable. Due to increased security measures monitoring drug traffic between Colombia and Aruba, we were told that we must either sail 10 miles up the Aruba coast to clear in with customs or else leave immediately. Now ten miles is a relatively short distance, but when your sailboat averages about 4 to 5 miles an hour it becomes a pain in the ass to sail further for over two hours. Especially when all you want is some sleep. At any rate, we had no better option, so on we went.

Aruba

Aruba Land

We ended up staying a couple of days anchored in Aruba. We went ashore to do some exploring but only as far as the major tourist areas where all the cruise ships docked. I got the impression that Aruba was the Disneyland of the ABC islands. The main street was lined with high rise hotels, jewelry shops, casinos, Pizza Huts, Dunkin’ Donuts, etc. Other cruisers we spoke with had more pleasant experiences in Aruba, but it left Alyson and I nostalgic for Curacao already. But I suppose 2 days is hardly enough time get to know a place.

Anxious to get underway again, we soon left Aruba behind and set sail for Bahia Honda, a sizeable bay in Colombia just beyond the Venezuelan border. We left early morning with clear skies, small seas, and fair wind.

Dinner

The sail throughout the day was quite enjoyable. We listened to music, did some fishing, and talked excitedly about what the Colombian coast would be like. By the start of the evening, the sun was setting before us leaving the sky burning a warm red. It reminded me of the old saying, “Red sky at night, sailors’ delight.” This, however, isn’t always the case because as the night wore on the weather began to quickly deteriorate. The winds began to pick up dramatically, as well as the wave size. Soon large rouge waves were hitting our stern quarter knocking the autopilot off course frequently. We ended up dousing the mizzen sail and reefing in the jib, but nothing we tried could slow our speed of 7 to 8 knots. At times the wind gusts were pushing us up to 10 knots under nearly bare poles. Frequently we were hit on the beam by large waves completely out of sync with the rhythm of the rest of the sea. One particularly strong wave broadsided us with such tremendous force that it sent one of the large solar panels flying from atop the hard dodger and into the sea. The mainsheet broke free causing the boom to swing violently across the deck (an extremely dangerous situation). Paul and I were forced to scramble on deck and tie the boom back into place. If that was the safest season to make the passage across, I can´t imagine what the bad weather season is like.

The real danger, however, was yet to come. On our charts in order to reach the safety of Bahia Honda, we would need to sail around the tip of the horn of Colombia. Alyson and I were taught aboard Quercus to always mark our position on the paper chart every hour. Due to some peculiarities with one light from shore we began to become uneasy. Upon inspection of our course, it was apparent that we were heading directly for land in the middle of night. Our skipper was convinced that the paper charts were wrong and was determined to sail by his GPS instead. The auto pilot was set to steer to a GPS waypoint on the other side of the horn. This meant that we would have to go over miles of land to get there on our current course. He nearly had a mutiny on his hands when Alyson plotted our course a half hour later and showed our position on the land. Even in the dark of night the water below us seemed brown and shallow. It wasn´t until we heard the crashing of waves on the shoreline that he agreed to turn on the depth sounder revealing 15 feet of water below us. Upon seeing this, he quickly swung the wheel around heading us directly north and away from certain catastrophe. It was a serious moment.

The next few hours were tense. We made our way north under sail and motor until we were clear of the Colombian coastline enough to continue west. By this point we were navigating only by waypoints Alyson had plotted from the chart. The weather was not as rough as earlier in the evening, but still miserable. Eventually we approached the entrance to Bahia Honda just as light was coming over the horizon. The night had shaken us, and Alyson and I had lost all confidence in our skipper.

As we came to Bahia Honda we did have a pause of relief when we were joined by a pod of dolphins swimming along with the boat. There must have been dozens, and they were enjoying some early morning exercise. Check out the video below. It was one of the most incredible sights we´ve seen so far.

The next three days were spent in the most miserable place on earth. We anchored in Bahia Honda the morning after our perilous night at sea. The bay was extremely large, but as an anchorage it was torturous. The winds howled day and night on our bow, while the current sent the waves beating against our beam. This caused the boat to rock horribly. It was nearly impossible to sleep at night with the crashing of pots and pans, and canned foods. The motion was unending. It was like being at sea and not getting anywhere. The land surrounding Bahia Honda was desolate. It was dry, rocky desert. No plants. No people. We had no communication with anyone. We had no access to weather forecasts. This left us no choice but to stay put and wait for some change in the winds. It was like being stuck on the moon. We would spend hours of the day watching the horizon to see if there was sign of any other boats. We tried to re-anchor several times, but we could never find relief from the cross current or the howling wind. It was too rough to even go ashore. One day I stood up on deck and had my sunglasses blown off my face and into the thick, brown water. They immediately sank. With nothing better to do, I attempted to dive down and retrieve them. The water was only 8 feet deep, but after 3 feet of depth any sunlight was filtered out leaving only pitch darkness. Cooking was an unbelievable challenge. Two people would have to man the stove to keep pots from sliding off. Alyson and I even had to brace ourselves in our bunk to keep from rolling out. Each day we woke up hoping to leave. The wind would still be howling. The white caps still breaking. ¨Maybe tomorrow¨. I´ve never felt so far away and isolated from everything.

By the afternoon of the 3rd day we spotted two sailboats out on the sea. They were sailboats we knew from Aruba. God, I can’t tell you how happy we were to see somebody else. It was like discovering life on a distant planet. We immediately got them on the radio and pumped them for information. The news was good. The next morning the seas were certain to be calmer and the winds lighter. Just one more night. Escape from Bahia Honda would be shortly before dawn.

The crew on a Swan 86 Racing Yacht.

The time we spent in Bonaire, gave us the opportunity to make several new friends and meet up with old ones.  Since most boats sailing in the westward Antilles have to visit the same islands, you get the chance to see some of the same people over and over.  You come to remember them more by the name of the boat and less by the names of the actual people.  Here is a quick blog about some of our favorite people and most memorable days while in Bonaire.   

The Young American Vacationers:

Our first week in Bonaire we met Richard and Tiffany.  They are a young American couple from Springfield, Missouri who had come down to the island on vacation.  Tiffany, who is a dive master, had visited Bonaire before and had returned with Richard to share the experience.  We happened to bump into them while having sundowners at Krael’s dockside bar.  They rocked and exponentially improved the already great time we were having in Bonaire.  It was great to sit, have a few beers and talk with people our own age, especially such interesting people.  Tiffany has spent years diving and told us all the good spots to hit along the waters edge.  She even does spelonking or cave diving.  Richard was awesome, too.  He kept us entertained and laughing with stories of bar tending, his stand-up comedy, touring the states with his band, and driving an ambulance.  We had such a great time with them that we all decided to meet the next day to do some snorkeling together.

We make friends with Tiffany and Richard while having sundowners.

Late the next morning, we headed out together in Quercus’s little dinghy to a spot they recommended.  The reefs along the island sit under about 30 feet of water.  The water is so clear though that the fish and corals are clearly visible from the surface.  We swam along watching the countless varieties of tropical fish passing beneath us.  The colorful coral sloped out of visibility and into the dark blue backdrop of the sea.  We even passed over scuba divers unaware of us swimming through their bubbles above.  I now regret not having purchased an underwater camera to document some of the incredible sights.  

We only spent a couple of hours snorkeling, but ended up spending the entire day with our new friends.  Richard and Tiffany were kind enough to invite us back to their rental apartment to let us borrow the use of their shower.  For Alyson and I this meant more then I think they realized.  We haven’t washed under an indoor shower in nearly two months.  Standing beneath the continuous flow of fresh, clean water I could literally feel the thin layer of salt wash off my body and out of my hair.  We emerged from our wash feeling like new people.  I think we must have avoided swimming the whole next day just to enjoy the sensation of being completely clean just a little bit longer.  We marveled at their spacious apartment as we remembered the things like air conditioning, blenders, and cable television.  For us, this was like a vacation. 

We had learned that a local dive resort was hosting a Free Rum Punch social followed by an all-you-can-eat BBQ.  We all decided to go together.  The bartenders at the resort we not stingy at all with the free drinks.  We sat on the patio looking over the water and watched dolphins swim through the channel.  The sun began to set, but the rum continued to flow.  As night fell and the tiki torches were lit, we could smell the unmistakable aroma of barbequed meats being slowly cooked.  I purchased a meal ticket and brought back enough plates of food for Alyson and I to share.  The buffet was laid out with trays overflowing with BBQ’d chicken fish & pork, creamy mashed potatoes, cold crispy salads, steamed vegetables, warm breads,  exotic fruits, and a variety of sweet deserts.  Looking at the tables of food stretching out before me, I couldn’t help but being moved by its splendorous glory.  “Truly, I have found paradise.” I thought.

Tiffany and Richard at the Rum Punch Social.

The crew enjoying the free rum punch.

We returned from the bbq thoroughly and completely satisfied.  We had planned to spend the night at Richard and Tiffany’s sleeping in their spare bed…yes! an actual bed!  From the day we had spent, I was beginning to feel quite hedonistic.  It was a day filled with simple pleasures, but its one we’ll always remember.  Thanks again, guys!

The Spanish Yacht Captain:

On a separate occasion, we had the good fortune of making friends with Joe, a yacht captain from Barcelona.  We met Joe while visiting the small marina near Kralendjik.  Alyson had spotted him working on an impressive 86′Swan Racing Yacht, and when she overheard him speaking Spanish, she decided to strike up a conversation.  As it turns out, Joe looks after the boat for a wealthy Spanish family who periodically visits for holidays and vacations.  The family and his crew were away for the time being, so he invited us over the next afternoon to take a look at the boat.  Score!

We must have felt a little privileged to be visiting such an expensive yacht, because I noticed that we both made extra efforts to clean up a little.  Alyson spent what seemed like hours in the head getting ready, and I even shaved and dug through my locker to find my cleanest shirt.  We arrived at the dock, promptly on time.  Being a little intimidated, we were almost too nervous to knock on the hull to see if Joe was really home.  But he was, and he came up through the companionway welcoming us aboard.  This yacht  was designed to do some serious sailing.  Joe told us that they often compete in regattas, and he ended up getting his job as captain by crewing aboard during the races.  After sharing a small (but roomy) 36 foot boat between four people, we were overwhelmed by the space aboard and the size of the gear.  Check out some of these pictures we took from the deck:

Here is Alyson lounging on the deck. Thats Joe on the starboard side. This boat was very beamy at 20 feet wide.

Look how enormous this winch is compared to Alyson's dainty hands.

John on a Swan86. Look at the size of the wheel. Its nearly 6 foot in diameter.

As you can see, its a BIG boat.  The boomvang is hydraulically controlled, and the winches are all electric.  In the cockpit lockers, Joe showed us where they store 8 sets of scuba diving equipment, a secondary dinghy, and an additional 25 Hp outboard motor!  On a boat, thats an unbelievable amount of space.  Below deck was just as impressive.  It had all the comforts of a nice home, but the designers managed to abstain from any tacky opulence.  Everything was laid out with the intention that this boat was meant to do some serious sailing.  The salon had surround sound stereo and a large, flat screen television.  The galley was larger than any kitchen Alyson or I had ever had in our apartment days, and it contained 4 separate fridges with an ice maker.  There were 4 heads, 4 cabins and a large, luxurious master cabin in the aft.  The nav. station was incredible with 3 separate monitor displays.  We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the spacious, air conditioned salon talking with Joe and watching his old racing videos.  If you can handle the lifestyle and work schedule, yacht captain would definitely be a sweet gig to have.  Days later we bumped into Joe in the grocery store.  He was buying his dinner for the night, which included 2 bottles of wine, a bag of shrimp, a loaf of French bread and some boxed chocolate.  “Here’s a guy who knows how to enjoy his work,” we thought.  

The South African Cruisers:

This blog would not be complete without mentioning Otto and Lily, a young South African couple on their boat Vagabond.  We actually met Otto and Lily while in Tortuga.  They were anchored right near us, and we had paid them a visit to ask about the weather.  We instantly liked them then, and we were excited to bump into them again on the streets of Bonaire.  They are the type of people who make you feel comfortable to be with, and their just so damn cool!  We spent a couple of days snorkeling together, and they got me really interested in free diving.  They both free dive quite often, and allowed me to borrow a weight belt and fins so that I could give it a try.  Its amazing how the right gear can make all the difference.  After weeks of snorkeling on the surface while watching the scuba divers swim along the bottom, I could finally dive down and swim along with them.  I got some up close views of the brain coral and stag horn coral teaming with tropical fish.  I was impressed at how long Otto could remain under water.  He seemed ready to live down there.  

In those few days we saw an incredible array of sea life:  There were dozens upon dozens of brightly colored fish striped in dark black and brilliant yellows, deep blues and flashing pinks.  We saw colorful eels that slithered along the sandy bottom and one reclusive octopus cowering beneath the rocks.  Gliding through the water on feathery wing like fins were green and purple parrot fish who chomped at the coral with their powerful beaks.  Alyson saw a tiny camouflaged sea horse clinging by his tail to the coral, trying to hold itself against the strong currents.  There were immense tarpons and six foot barracuda.  We saw a family of squid with large conscious eyes that hovered in the water like some strange, alien life form.  On the rocks along the waters edge sunbathed the dry and scaly hordes of iguana, and gliding silently through the anchorages swam the swift and graceful hornbill sea turtles.  “Why didn’t I buy an underwater camera?”

These iguanas lounge all along the water front.

Since we’ve been out hopping and jaunting, we’ve met numerous people and made some good friends.  Alyson and I have been pretty pleased at how friendly and helpful most people are.  Aside from one enterprising cab driver who was a little uncooperative, the majority of folks we’ve dealt with are very nice, honest, and fair.  Of course, we still keep on guard when dealing with new people…just in case.  I suppose if I had to leave any advice for the aspiring traveler, when dealing with people abroad keep a good attitude, use your common sense, and don’t be afraid to try something new…and also send postcards.

The crew of Hop and Jaunt enjoying the beach.

Our next destination, as we headed west, was the small archipelago of Los Roques or “The Rocks”.  It is a group of islands that sit very low in the Caribbean Sea north of the coast of Venezuela and eastward of the reknowned ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, & Curacao).  The islands are surrounded by shallows of reefs and is kept as a Venezuelan National Marine Park.  It is reputed to be one of the best marine parks in the Caribbean.  The passage from Tortuga was pretty calm.  We left about midday and sailed throughout the night.  Our only difficulty came about a mile off shore of our approach to the narrow channel between the reefs on the southeastern side of the island chains.  As fate would have it, this was the moment when our water pump on the diesel shredded its impeller and brought our faithful Mercedes engine to a halt.  The damaged impeller (being the result of some shoddy workmanship done in Trinidad) left us floating between the winds and the reefs with nothing but sail.  Fortunately, for Quercus and the crew, the Skipper had the foresight to have installed a backup electric water pump that was connected within mere minutes.  With danger averted we made our way slowly along the channel and into the inviting anchorages of Los Roques.

This is a map of the Los Roques Island Chain. We entered through the narrow channel at Boca de Sebastopol and motored up along the reefs to Crasqui Island where we anchored.

Los Roques is really a fascinating place to see.  Beauty from horizon to horizon.  The water is deep (we anchored in nearly 25 ft) and so clear that the sandy bottom was easily visible.  The sandbars and shallows of the bay glowed with a bright aqua green in stark contrast to the dark blues and indigos of the deeps.  The land was outlined with sandy white shores and green vegetation in the form of mangroves and palms.  Our anchorage at Crasqui Island was nearly in the center of the archipelago and the islands and beaches surrounded us in nearly every direction.  It was a relatively quiet place.  There were a few small restaurants and Posadas (or inns) along the beach front.  Our only neighbors were a couple of large fishing boats and one other American sailboat.  It was so quiet and tranquil the first couple of days that at times it felt like we were the only ones there.  Having spent the past month sailing through such amazing places, I began to notice how accustomed we were becoming to the beauty of each place.  All of our conversations started sounding more repetitive and less sincere ( “Look at how pretty the beach is.”, “Look at that pretty sunset.”, “Isn’t the water pretty?”)

The beaches of Los Roques.

After spending a couple of relaxing days at anchor, we were surprised one morning to find large crowds of people on the beach.  The groups were brought in on small open pirro boats along with their beach chairs and umbrellas.  I assume that the largest island Gran Roques must have a hotel near the airport where Venezuelan vacationers come to enjoy a little holiday.  On this morning Alyson and I went up to the beach to enjoy the surf and sun.  The winds were rather still and the sun was so bright, it was a perfect day to spend enjoying the scenery and the beach.  We all piled into the dinghy and motored ashore to join the rest of the crowd.  I have to admit beforehand that this was one of my favorite days since we’ve been out.  Alyson and I walked down the white beaches (with sand as soft as flour) until we came across the perfect spot.  As I’ve said there were many people on the beach that day, and laying out on their blankets right beside us was a group of young and lovely Venezuelan girls sunbathing topless.  (Bless their hearts).  These young ladies were not shy.  They would frolic with each other in the water, rolling in the sand and the waves while laughing and bouncing.  It was some of the best wildlife I’ve spotted so far.  At one point a flock of sea gulls descended on their blanket and it sent them running around and screaming.  The bravest of the bunch attempted to shoo the birds away by running into the flock and then began barking, which was a pretty funny sight.  Perhaps the girls weren’t too bright, but they did put on an entertaining show.  Enough to distract us from the beauty of the islands, which was rather amazing anyhow.

The beach was lined with people that day.  Men in speedos and women in thongs (or occasionally topless).  In my surf shorts and Alyson in her bikini, we began to feel a little overdressed.  Mostly it was couples or small groups of friends.  Young handsome men and sexy women were everywhere we looked.  I did find it strange though that we passed one loner.  He was so noticeable because he stuck out like a sore thumb amongst the young, tan couples.  I saw him as we walked along the beach.  There he sat alone in a tiny beach chair, underneath a tiny beach umbrella.  He was pale white and chubby and looked familiarly like Andy Richter.  He looked so pitiful sitting there by himself with an awkward frown as he tried desperately to ignore the Venezuelan lovers making-out in the sand right next to him.  (The woman of course topless and in a thong).  His story was one I would have liked to known.  How did he wind up there, in such a remote place, alone amongst all those couples?  I bet he’s an interesting person.

Being in remote places can make it difficult to keep in contact and communication with the outside world.  Not only is email a virtual impossibility (without SSB) it also becomes difficult to receive updated and accurate weather forecasts.  The winds had been steadily constant since we left Grenada.  The frequent gusts in the late afternoons and early evenings gave us concern for sailing out onto the sea with no prior knowledge of the wind conditions or sea states.  In situations like this, you have to rely on the kindness of others.  Alyson and I were recruited to pay a visit to our American neighbors on their yacht Evening Star in order to find any information on the weather.  There we met an extremely nice couple, Mike and Barbara.  They welcomed us into their boat by giving us cold drinks and a tour of their 47′ Fuji sail boat.  The people you meet is usually one of the best parts of traveling and Mike and Barbara were no exception.  Naturally they asked us where we were from and I proudly told them “Andalusia, Alabama”.  I was floored to hear Mike reply, “Oh yeah, right there by Opp”.  I am beginning to lose track of the times I have heard other cruisers mention to me the internationally renowned “Andaluisa-Opp Airport“.  Apparently, my little home town holds a much more prominent position in the world than I had ever realized, and I love hearing people telling me they’ve been there.  It fills me with pride for that place and makes me a little less homesick to talk about it while I grin from ear to ear.  I also have to give credit to Lynyrd Skynyrd for making Alabama famous among the international community.  Usually telling people I’m from Alabama gets me the reply of the first chorus line of “Sweet Home Alabama”.

Mike and Barbara not only got us the weather forecasts we desperately needed, but they also educated us on how to use our SSB radio to receive broadcasts of the Chris Parker weather reports for the Caribbean everyday.  This was a big help and took out a lot of the guess work in our planning.  They were also a wealth of information on the local area.  The largest island of Gran Roques has a lot to offer the boating community.  Fuel, water, garbage collection, and groceries are readily available.  It isn’t uncommon for many yachties to spend a few weeks in Los Roques exploring the different islands and anchorages.  Its also a popular spot among Venezuelan boaters and sports fishermen.  Within days the quiet shoreline of Crasqui Island began to fill up with fishing boats and large power yachts of the Venezuelan elite.  Kite surfing is very popular here too.  We saw a few small sailboats come in with surfers who must cruise around just kite surfing along the windward islands of the Caribbean.  The protected waters and frequent winds must make it an ideal place to surf and check out the scenery.

As the week ended we prepared to pull anchor and continue on.  Alyson and I would definitely like to revisit Los Roques one day and continue to explore the reefs and isles.  Perhaps one day on a boat of our own; but at this time our tanks needed water, we needed to contact family, and I think we were all anxious for a cold drink and a cheeseburger.  (We hadn’t had much meat to eat since leaving Margarita a week and a half ago).  The weather window seemed right for making the trip, so we headed out on a Saturday, June 20.  By Sunday afternoon we would be in the Netherland’s famous island of Bonaire.

Check out some of our photos below.

These are a series of rocks and coral stacked up into towers. Oddly enough we've seen variations of this practice in various location around the globe.

This is one of the basic but inviting beach Posadas where you can cool off or get a quick drink.

Look at that pretty smile.

Here's Quercus at her anchor.

Some of our neighbors. The elite of Venezuela on their Mega Yachts came up for the weekend.

The week we spent in Los Testigos passed rather quickly. Each day was filled with some new encounter or experience that made us both reluctant to leave and also excited to see the next location. We spent our days snorkeling in the crystal clear water amongst the colorful reefs filled with tropical fish, large jellies, and the occasional sting ray. At night we ate freshly caught fish and watched the sunset off to the west. Each day seemed to pass by with very little distraction by the means of internet, stores and shops, and traffic. However, we were destined to follow the sun west and on Tuesday morning, June 2nd we pulled up anchor and motored out of the channel.

We were heading for Isla Margarita with very light winds that day. We had not yet left sight of Testigos when our Genoa sail luffed in the slight breeze and became caught on one of the upper mast steps. Before we could free it, a puff of wind hit the sail and tore a small hole running along the seam at the foot of it. We immediately pulled in the sail and assessed the situation. Our intentions were to make landfall in Margarita before nightfall, but with the loss of the Genoa and such light winds, we concluded that maintaining the necessary speed would be difficult. As a result we headed back to Testigos. We quickly re-anchored (with permission from the local Coasta Guardia) and pulled the Genoa off the forestay. The rest of the afternoon was spent stitching the torn seam and repairing the sail to near perfect condition. It was a slight set back, but we made the best of the situation by learning a new skill and enjoying another beautiful day in that remote island paradise.

We got a much earlier start the next morning. We pulled up anchor at 2 am and motored out into the dark sea. The passage from Los Testiogs to Isla Margarita went very well. The winds were still very light ranging from 5 to 10 knots (more near to 5), which resulted in us motoring the entire trip. Quercus’s 50hp Mercedes diesel ran like the well oiled machine that it is for the entire 50 mile voyage. With the exception of a spotting the occasional fishing vessel and one lone sea turtle, it was a quiet run. By midday, we had already spotted land looming in the distance and soon we were coming into our anchorage at Porlamar.

The sight of Margarita from our boat was a drastically different view from that of Los Testigos. Large condos and hotels stretched along the water front like the coasts of Miami or Panama City, Florida. Instead of the quiet calm anchorage that we found in Testigos, Porlamar bay was filled with boats. The waters of the unprotected bay rolled heavily, giving Porlamar the nickname “Roll-amar” amongst the local cruiser community. From our stay here, I could agree that Margarita is not an ideal island paradise. It is more of a tourist destination for Venezuelans and Europeans. It doesn’t have the same untouched natural beauty of Testigos.

It is what it is, I suppose. Mainly, its a port to stock up at and refuel. Much like a giant truck stop you may pull into after a long drive down the interstate. And that’s what we did here. We refilled our tanks with fresh water and our fuel tanks with diesel. We purchased 50 gallons of diesel for nearly a $1 per gallon. With prices like this, I can see why so many cruisers decide to stay here for so long. You really can’t beat the prices in Margarita with a near 6 Bolivars to 1 Dollar exchange rate (if you can find the right location). Also, Margarita is a duty free island, so there is a reduction in tax. They have a good system for getting water and fuel there. Small pirro boats will come through Porlamar with barrels and jugs, and you can refuel right where you are anchored. A great delivery service.

From talking with the cruisers who have made a temporary home in Margarita, you get a sense of the decline in boats visiting. Although, there were several boats anchored in Porlamar, the numbers are greatly reduced from previous seasons. Some of this is attributed to the current economic decline and the fact the more people are staying home instead of heading out to sail. Others claim that changes in Venezuelan’s government has put people off from visiting the territories surrounding it. Piracy is another issue. With the increase in attacks on yachts along the eastern coast of Venezuela, most cruisers think it best to avoid the area all together. Security is an issue in Margarita and most likely will remain an issue from here on out. It is highly advised here to both lock your dinghy and haul it out of the water every night or “IT WILL BE STOLEN.” Everyone seems to take this certain threat rather casually though. As if it were nothing more than a recommendation to fasten the lids of your garbage cans at night in order to keep raccoons and stray dogs out of it. I suppose the thieves will take what they can get, so there is no need in making anything easy game for them. I can say that we both locked and hauled out our dinghy every night, and thus so, suffered no losses.

For such a small community of cruisers here there are some fine services available, such as internet on the boat and a local cruisers’ net (although very concise and brief it may be). If you sail your boat to Porlamar, Juan’s Marina is the place you want to go. It doesn’t appear to be much, but don’t let appearances fool you. Juan can handle visa check ins & check outs, he sells cold drinks, and refills Jerry cans with drinking water for nearly nothing. They also orchestrate a free bus to take all the yachties in town to the grocery store/mall 2 to 3 times a week. This is also where you can take your garbage, exchange books from his book swap library, and have your propane tanks refilled. Its kind of a ‘Juan Stop Shop’ (pun intended) for sailors.