Arrival in Isla Margarita

The week we spent in Los Testigos passed rather quickly. Each day was filled with some new encounter or experience that made us both reluctant to leave and also excited to see the next location. We spent our days snorkeling in the crystal clear water amongst the colorful reefs filled with tropical fish, large jellies, and the occasional sting ray. At night we ate freshly caught fish and watched the sunset off to the west. Each day seemed to pass by with very little distraction by the means of internet, stores and shops, and traffic. However, we were destined to follow the sun west and on Tuesday morning, June 2nd we pulled up anchor and motored out of the channel.

We were heading for Isla Margarita with very light winds that day. We had not yet left sight of Testigos when our Genoa sail luffed in the slight breeze and became caught on one of the upper mast steps. Before we could free it, a puff of wind hit the sail and tore a small hole running along the seam at the foot of it. We immediately pulled in the sail and assessed the situation. Our intentions were to make landfall in Margarita before nightfall, but with the loss of the Genoa and such light winds, we concluded that maintaining the necessary speed would be difficult. As a result we headed back to Testigos. We quickly re-anchored (with permission from the local Coasta Guardia) and pulled the Genoa off the forestay. The rest of the afternoon was spent stitching the torn seam and repairing the sail to near perfect condition. It was a slight set back, but we made the best of the situation by learning a new skill and enjoying another beautiful day in that remote island paradise.

We got a much earlier start the next morning. We pulled up anchor at 2 am and motored out into the dark sea. The passage from Los Testiogs to Isla Margarita went very well. The winds were still very light ranging from 5 to 10 knots (more near to 5), which resulted in us motoring the entire trip. Quercus’s 50hp Mercedes diesel ran like the well oiled machine that it is for the entire 50 mile voyage. With the exception of a spotting the occasional fishing vessel and one lone sea turtle, it was a quiet run. By midday, we had already spotted land looming in the distance and soon we were coming into our anchorage at Porlamar.

The sight of Margarita from our boat was a drastically different view from that of Los Testigos. Large condos and hotels stretched along the water front like the coasts of Miami or Panama City, Florida. Instead of the quiet calm anchorage that we found in Testigos, Porlamar bay was filled with boats. The waters of the unprotected bay rolled heavily, giving Porlamar the nickname “Roll-amar” amongst the local cruiser community. From our stay here, I could agree that Margarita is not an ideal island paradise. It is more of a tourist destination for Venezuelans and Europeans. It doesn’t have the same untouched natural beauty of Testigos.

It is what it is, I suppose. Mainly, its a port to stock up at and refuel. Much like a giant truck stop you may pull into after a long drive down the interstate. And that’s what we did here. We refilled our tanks with fresh water and our fuel tanks with diesel. We purchased 50 gallons of diesel for nearly a $1 per gallon. With prices like this, I can see why so many cruisers decide to stay here for so long. You really can’t beat the prices in Margarita with a near 6 Bolivars to 1 Dollar exchange rate (if you can find the right location). Also, Margarita is a duty free island, so there is a reduction in tax. They have a good system for getting water and fuel there. Small pirro boats will come through Porlamar with barrels and jugs, and you can refuel right where you are anchored. A great delivery service.

From talking with the cruisers who have made a temporary home in Margarita, you get a sense of the decline in boats visiting. Although, there were several boats anchored in Porlamar, the numbers are greatly reduced from previous seasons. Some of this is attributed to the current economic decline and the fact the more people are staying home instead of heading out to sail. Others claim that changes in Venezuelan’s government has put people off from visiting the territories surrounding it. Piracy is another issue. With the increase in attacks on yachts along the eastern coast of Venezuela, most cruisers think it best to avoid the area all together. Security is an issue in Margarita and most likely will remain an issue from here on out. It is highly advised here to both lock your dinghy and haul it out of the water every night or “IT WILL BE STOLEN.” Everyone seems to take this certain threat rather casually though. As if it were nothing more than a recommendation to fasten the lids of your garbage cans at night in order to keep raccoons and stray dogs out of it. I suppose the thieves will take what they can get, so there is no need in making anything easy game for them. I can say that we both locked and hauled out our dinghy every night, and thus so, suffered no losses.

For such a small community of cruisers here there are some fine services available, such as internet on the boat and a local cruisers’ net (although very concise and brief it may be). If you sail your boat to Porlamar, Juan’s Marina is the place you want to go. It doesn’t appear to be much, but don’t let appearances fool you. Juan can handle visa check ins & check outs, he sells cold drinks, and refills Jerry cans with drinking water for nearly nothing. They also orchestrate a free bus to take all the yachties in town to the grocery store/mall 2 to 3 times a week. This is also where you can take your garbage, exchange books from his book swap library, and have your propane tanks refilled. Its kind of a ‘Juan Stop Shop’ (pun intended) for sailors.

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