Perros and Plazas of Cartagena

During the last month of staying in Cartagena (we were there 3 months) we rented a room at Casa Valdez, a hostel-like place only a block from Plaza Trinidad. We had scored the upstairs room with the only balcony/window at the place by the second week and though the water didn’t work in the sink we  called it home. The hostel technically came with a pretty decent communal kitchen but John and I were already so unaccustomed to cooking that it might have taken a half a day to recognize what it was.

The truth is that we had grown accustomed to eating the ‘typical’ food of the city at as local a price as we could get them. There was not many meals that we could make that would be as good or as cheap as a Chorri Perro (giant hot-dog with crushed potato-chips, four different sauces, and melted cheese) or bbq chicken and vegetables on a stick, or even a plate of beef steak and potatoes from the street vendors at our local plaza (square).  The truth be told we were quite happy to save our money by going out to eat everyday. We tried street vendors, local lunch dinners, and on a special occasion we even splurged on a five-star night out. Today I’ll take you on a mini culinary tour of the city of Cartagena.

Ironically though we ate out for almost every meal, even coffee was available by waving down a coffee man on the street, we don’t have as many photos of the food as one would think. I guess it felt so ‘normal’ that we never really bothered. But We should have enough to at least  give you a little appetizer.

On of our favorite plazas was Plaza Trinidad, it’s a small community centric area with the church overlooking the square. While it’s a sleepy place during the day with a few men resting under the shade it picks up at sundown as the neighborhood families come out to socialize. There are usually four to six stands that set up here after dark, though it is one of the smaller tucked away squares there are still a couple of sit-in open air restaurants to choose from as well. In fact, some say that one of the best pizza parlors in town is right off this plaza, Antonio’s. We ended up there a few nights as well, and indeed it is very very good pizza, specially considering you could order a large pizza and a couple of beers for around $10. At the plaza your typical evening choices where: beef steak, hot dogs, meat-on-a-stick, fresh fruit smoothies, a grill with the self proclaimed best hamburgers in town, and the more normal arepas, empanadas, and patacones.

One afternoon we decided to take Valencia, an adorable and energetic 7-year old that was living at the house with her mother, on a walk with us. Her mother worked nights and was thus tired during most of the day. They had moved to the city from a small town six months earlier, and since her mom worked nights she wasn’t allowed to go to the square alone to meet the neighborhood kids. Because it is so hot here, most of the families bring their little ones out to play at the plaza after sundown. So she had to spend a lot of time inside at the hostel, and thus always befriended the guest. Since I spoke Spanish and am a sucker for little kids we soon became good buddies and would take her to the square at nights to play and make friends. This particular day we thought we would let her come with us on our customary city roam. On days when we had not much going on, we would take the camera and just roam the city. She was so excited, she had not been out of the neighborhood since getting here. She had not even been to the historic downtown, a ten minuet walk away.  So off we went. First we stopped by Plaza Trinidad as there looked to be something going on. From our hostel we could tell that there looked to be a stage being built and banners where going up. When we got there we realized that it was not a stage, but a ring. The local neighborhood boy’s boxing club was having a tournament. As we arrived two boys were getting in the ring. They had the look of utter concentration and determination, each complete with a doting coach rubbing their shoulders and inserting their mouth guards. They couldn’t have been much older than Valencia. The bell rang and BAM! the match started. I was thinking how cute and little they were a few seconds ago but when the match started it might as well have been two three hundred pound professionals out there. The crowd got into it cheering with each punch thrown. The fighters were giving it their all. After a few great right handers by the red corner boy the bell rung and the winner was announced. What impressed me the most was that as soon as the match was over their serious faces broke out into a smile whether they won or lost and both gave each other a sincere handshake and hug. It is always nice to see genuine good sportsman ship.

I know we got a little side tracked from our food wanderings, but in this city you never know what you might walk into. Just on time Valencia pipes up with what we considered her catch phrase “I’m hungry.” Off we go again in search of food and entertainment for our seven year old buddy, the boxing match would be here all day anyway working it’s way up the to the 17-18yr old gran finale matches.

As we walked along Valencia announced that she wanted to go to a zoo! Well, we’ve didn’t even know that the city had a zoo…but a park near by used to have a zoo in it. So we walked to this old park that was built in 1811. Walking through this large and shady plaza you could almost see the rising and falling rhythm of the city. The park looked run down and ancient at the same time that you could tell it has recently been renovated and new interest and care is being put into the park. I had a feeling that until recently the park would not have been as nice a place to come as tourist, specially with a child in tow. Now there is a police station in the middle of the park and it is definitely safe during the day and worth the visit. It has many play areas for kids, including a skating track, and it’s not hard to imagine where the cages for the zoo must have been as the path winds around.

As we entered an open plaza there were not only food there but there was some sort of food stall competition going on. There was a band playing in the center and in a semi-circle around the band where stall selling traditional Colombian tamales. Colombian tamales are a different from the typical Mexican tamale in that it tends to be larger and is wrapped in a banana leaf.  We selected a table and sat down. We figured since John and I weren’t that hungry yet and since Valencia is such a skinny little seven year old girl that one order should do the trick. We obviously don’t hang out with kids enough, as we completly underestimated how much and how quick a hungry kid will eat! While I was busy snapping a few pics and John ordering something to drink she was already decimating the tamale! John who was now also getting hungry had to grab his fork and start scarfing down. I ended up having to elbow her away to grab a bite!

After the tamale that day we also fed her a corn on the cob, candy, nuts, ice cream, and pizza for dinner. I think she knew that we would be easy babysitters and I bet she dosen’t get away with all the treats normally. But we all had fun, we had even gone over to see the carriage-ride horses.

We ended walking around the city until seven or eight o’clock when she finally she got tired and cranky and wanted to go home and see her mommy.   But as soon as John lifted her up and gave her a piggy back ride she returned to all smiles all the way back home.

On some days we feel like something different and once in a blue moon we will treat ourselves to the finer things in life. Cartagena has many options for every levels of your dining budget. One night I had this craving for Thai food, and after a little googling found that there was indeed a restaurant in town that served Thai. Cafe San Pedro is located right in front of San Pedro Cathedral and it’s patio seating makes for a great view of the beautiful church. The first time we went there Mass was going on inside and you could hear the music and sermon floating through the air. We had ordered Pad Thai and it was excellent with an assortment of seafood such as shrimp, squid, and muscle thrown in as well! Ummm yummy.

Once in even a longer blue moon John and I will flex our culinary muscles and create our own five-star dinners!

But that was when we were on the sweet luxury yacht that we were boat-sitting. When we were staying at the hostel we ended up hanging out a lot at our “bar”. Scooter’s Pub was just around the corner from us and we immediately liked the cool vibe once we walked in…even if we were the only customers. We ended befriending Manuel, the uni-cycling DJ-ing bartender, and Leo a romantic souled Borat-impressionist. The food turned out to be just like in England…terrible! (Sorry all my Brit friends!) But the atmosphere was great and since the bar was never crowded it became a club house of sorts where we would all hang out and play. It was our version of Cheers!

Well I hoped you enjoyed my meandering tour of eating and playing in Cartagena. Next time I’ll try to stay more on course!

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