These are the people in your neighborhood

The crew on a Swan 86 Racing Yacht.

The time we spent in Bonaire, gave us the opportunity to make several new friends and meet up with old ones.  Since most boats sailing in the westward Antilles have to visit the same islands, you get the chance to see some of the same people over and over.  You come to remember them more by the name of the boat and less by the names of the actual people.  Here is a quick blog about some of our favorite people and most memorable days while in Bonaire.   

The Young American Vacationers:

Our first week in Bonaire we met Richard and Tiffany.  They are a young American couple from Springfield, Missouri who had come down to the island on vacation.  Tiffany, who is a dive master, had visited Bonaire before and had returned with Richard to share the experience.  We happened to bump into them while having sundowners at Krael’s dockside bar.  They rocked and exponentially improved the already great time we were having in Bonaire.  It was great to sit, have a few beers and talk with people our own age, especially such interesting people.  Tiffany has spent years diving and told us all the good spots to hit along the waters edge.  She even does spelonking or cave diving.  Richard was awesome, too.  He kept us entertained and laughing with stories of bar tending, his stand-up comedy, touring the states with his band, and driving an ambulance.  We had such a great time with them that we all decided to meet the next day to do some snorkeling together.

We make friends with Tiffany and Richard while having sundowners.

Late the next morning, we headed out together in Quercus’s little dinghy to a spot they recommended.  The reefs along the island sit under about 30 feet of water.  The water is so clear though that the fish and corals are clearly visible from the surface.  We swam along watching the countless varieties of tropical fish passing beneath us.  The colorful coral sloped out of visibility and into the dark blue backdrop of the sea.  We even passed over scuba divers unaware of us swimming through their bubbles above.  I now regret not having purchased an underwater camera to document some of the incredible sights.  

We only spent a couple of hours snorkeling, but ended up spending the entire day with our new friends.  Richard and Tiffany were kind enough to invite us back to their rental apartment to let us borrow the use of their shower.  For Alyson and I this meant more then I think they realized.  We haven’t washed under an indoor shower in nearly two months.  Standing beneath the continuous flow of fresh, clean water I could literally feel the thin layer of salt wash off my body and out of my hair.  We emerged from our wash feeling like new people.  I think we must have avoided swimming the whole next day just to enjoy the sensation of being completely clean just a little bit longer.  We marveled at their spacious apartment as we remembered the things like air conditioning, blenders, and cable television.  For us, this was like a vacation. 

We had learned that a local dive resort was hosting a Free Rum Punch social followed by an all-you-can-eat BBQ.  We all decided to go together.  The bartenders at the resort we not stingy at all with the free drinks.  We sat on the patio looking over the water and watched dolphins swim through the channel.  The sun began to set, but the rum continued to flow.  As night fell and the tiki torches were lit, we could smell the unmistakable aroma of barbequed meats being slowly cooked.  I purchased a meal ticket and brought back enough plates of food for Alyson and I to share.  The buffet was laid out with trays overflowing with BBQ’d chicken fish & pork, creamy mashed potatoes, cold crispy salads, steamed vegetables, warm breads,  exotic fruits, and a variety of sweet deserts.  Looking at the tables of food stretching out before me, I couldn’t help but being moved by its splendorous glory.  “Truly, I have found paradise.” I thought.

Tiffany and Richard at the Rum Punch Social.

The crew enjoying the free rum punch.

We returned from the bbq thoroughly and completely satisfied.  We had planned to spend the night at Richard and Tiffany’s sleeping in their spare bed…yes! an actual bed!  From the day we had spent, I was beginning to feel quite hedonistic.  It was a day filled with simple pleasures, but its one we’ll always remember.  Thanks again, guys!

The Spanish Yacht Captain:

On a separate occasion, we had the good fortune of making friends with Joe, a yacht captain from Barcelona.  We met Joe while visiting the small marina near Kralendjik.  Alyson had spotted him working on an impressive 86′Swan Racing Yacht, and when she overheard him speaking Spanish, she decided to strike up a conversation.  As it turns out, Joe looks after the boat for a wealthy Spanish family who periodically visits for holidays and vacations.  The family and his crew were away for the time being, so he invited us over the next afternoon to take a look at the boat.  Score!

We must have felt a little privileged to be visiting such an expensive yacht, because I noticed that we both made extra efforts to clean up a little.  Alyson spent what seemed like hours in the head getting ready, and I even shaved and dug through my locker to find my cleanest shirt.  We arrived at the dock, promptly on time.  Being a little intimidated, we were almost too nervous to knock on the hull to see if Joe was really home.  But he was, and he came up through the companionway welcoming us aboard.  This yacht  was designed to do some serious sailing.  Joe told us that they often compete in regattas, and he ended up getting his job as captain by crewing aboard during the races.  After sharing a small (but roomy) 36 foot boat between four people, we were overwhelmed by the space aboard and the size of the gear.  Check out some of these pictures we took from the deck:

Here is Alyson lounging on the deck. Thats Joe on the starboard side. This boat was very beamy at 20 feet wide.

Look how enormous this winch is compared to Alyson's dainty hands.

John on a Swan86. Look at the size of the wheel. Its nearly 6 foot in diameter.

As you can see, its a BIG boat.  The boomvang is hydraulically controlled, and the winches are all electric.  In the cockpit lockers, Joe showed us where they store 8 sets of scuba diving equipment, a secondary dinghy, and an additional 25 Hp outboard motor!  On a boat, thats an unbelievable amount of space.  Below deck was just as impressive.  It had all the comforts of a nice home, but the designers managed to abstain from any tacky opulence.  Everything was laid out with the intention that this boat was meant to do some serious sailing.  The salon had surround sound stereo and a large, flat screen television.  The galley was larger than any kitchen Alyson or I had ever had in our apartment days, and it contained 4 separate fridges with an ice maker.  There were 4 heads, 4 cabins and a large, luxurious master cabin in the aft.  The nav. station was incredible with 3 separate monitor displays.  We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the spacious, air conditioned salon talking with Joe and watching his old racing videos.  If you can handle the lifestyle and work schedule, yacht captain would definitely be a sweet gig to have.  Days later we bumped into Joe in the grocery store.  He was buying his dinner for the night, which included 2 bottles of wine, a bag of shrimp, a loaf of French bread and some boxed chocolate.  “Here’s a guy who knows how to enjoy his work,” we thought.  

The South African Cruisers:

This blog would not be complete without mentioning Otto and Lily, a young South African couple on their boat Vagabond.  We actually met Otto and Lily while in Tortuga.  They were anchored right near us, and we had paid them a visit to ask about the weather.  We instantly liked them then, and we were excited to bump into them again on the streets of Bonaire.  They are the type of people who make you feel comfortable to be with, and their just so damn cool!  We spent a couple of days snorkeling together, and they got me really interested in free diving.  They both free dive quite often, and allowed me to borrow a weight belt and fins so that I could give it a try.  Its amazing how the right gear can make all the difference.  After weeks of snorkeling on the surface while watching the scuba divers swim along the bottom, I could finally dive down and swim along with them.  I got some up close views of the brain coral and stag horn coral teaming with tropical fish.  I was impressed at how long Otto could remain under water.  He seemed ready to live down there.  

In those few days we saw an incredible array of sea life:  There were dozens upon dozens of brightly colored fish striped in dark black and brilliant yellows, deep blues and flashing pinks.  We saw colorful eels that slithered along the sandy bottom and one reclusive octopus cowering beneath the rocks.  Gliding through the water on feathery wing like fins were green and purple parrot fish who chomped at the coral with their powerful beaks.  Alyson saw a tiny camouflaged sea horse clinging by his tail to the coral, trying to hold itself against the strong currents.  There were immense tarpons and six foot barracuda.  We saw a family of squid with large conscious eyes that hovered in the water like some strange, alien life form.  On the rocks along the waters edge sunbathed the dry and scaly hordes of iguana, and gliding silently through the anchorages swam the swift and graceful hornbill sea turtles.  “Why didn’t I buy an underwater camera?”

These iguanas lounge all along the water front.

Since we’ve been out hopping and jaunting, we’ve met numerous people and made some good friends.  Alyson and I have been pretty pleased at how friendly and helpful most people are.  Aside from one enterprising cab driver who was a little uncooperative, the majority of folks we’ve dealt with are very nice, honest, and fair.  Of course, we still keep on guard when dealing with new people…just in case.  I suppose if I had to leave any advice for the aspiring traveler, when dealing with people abroad keep a good attitude, use your common sense, and don’t be afraid to try something new…and also send postcards.

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